tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14158914854937796362024-03-13T08:05:41.495-04:00Bergamot Gem TalkBergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-91150040965745493002016-08-15T12:25:00.001-04:002016-08-15T12:29:06.277-04:00Why Do You Wear Jewelry?<div style="text-align: justify;">
Have you ever heard someone say that jewelry serves no purpose? That it's simply a vain way to decorate oneself? I have. Some will go so far as to say that in today's strained economy, jewelry is a decadence that one can do without precisely because it has no practical use. But I would beg to differ.</div>
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As someone who has always been fascinated by history and particularly archaeology, it has been my observations that we can learn far more about people and times past by looking not only at the practical artefacts (such as pottery or furniture), but also to items like jewelry and clothing. These items help us answer not only questions like "how did they do this", but perhaps more importantly, "why did they do this". So back here in 2016, perhaps it's worth asking <i>why</i> one wears jewelry, rather than to what end.</div>
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<span style="text-align: start;"> Let's look into this deeper:</span></div>
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<b>Jewelry can be a capsule: </b>As noted earlier, jewelry much like clothing has often served as a way to readily identify someone in the frame of their time and society. With visual cues and symbols, these items can be indicative not only of a time period, but also of mores and belief systems that help us readily recognise one another. Let's use this one as a simple example: From someone wearing a cross at their neck, you would assume they they believed in some denomination of Christianity, no?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZgJbBRYK6WWH5xC5d5xrEGi35ov0FLdoVAAm4BaOlJKX8L9uP6bcdwaZD2o9XA9x-fVj9fdW4SNrOrMSbCg9oroK9o3YZlAeS8lfEFi5G5hC_Kzc6NHhbbahi5oGgrGAUFGVkF25FXxY/s1600/kalmarantiques.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZgJbBRYK6WWH5xC5d5xrEGi35ov0FLdoVAAm4BaOlJKX8L9uP6bcdwaZD2o9XA9x-fVj9fdW4SNrOrMSbCg9oroK9o3YZlAeS8lfEFi5G5hC_Kzc6NHhbbahi5oGgrGAUFGVkF25FXxY/s320/kalmarantiques.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fine example of suffragette jewelry, displaying the ever-present green, white and violet colors of the movement. Photo courtesy of www.kalmarantiques.com </td></tr>
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Here's another: In a time when women sought the right to vote, suffragettes in the late 19th and 20th century UK would wear brooches with gemstones in the colors purple (dignity), white (purity) and green (hope), which allowed the quiet display of one's political views. Some even say that the colors would spell the acronym GWV, meaning "Give Women Votes". The implication of this color symbolism was not clandestine, and so those displaying such colors were often arrested on suspicions of sympathy towards the equality of women.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBYT_FGEeVAeDWUkdlvlhNBEetEpdq13QVZludxN4SuX_to01sYxBI6Y73P7r1vJULb3z9MPLjV_hWrOPG9E9-cPP9T9PrmQDX04kmA1KjSVnqXkA0Uho2Oq6VmoDTp4VLUYwvIc4FXFc/s1600/voiny-pompei.nsknet.ru.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBYT_FGEeVAeDWUkdlvlhNBEetEpdq13QVZludxN4SuX_to01sYxBI6Y73P7r1vJULb3z9MPLjV_hWrOPG9E9-cPP9T9PrmQDX04kmA1KjSVnqXkA0Uho2Oq6VmoDTp4VLUYwvIc4FXFc/s320/voiny-pompei.nsknet.ru.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cloak brooch of later years, made in gold and various gemstones. Indicating that it has bridged the gap between being strictly practical and a jewel.</td></tr>
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<b>Jewelry <u>can</u> be practical: </b>While most items I will mention here are from times past, it is worth mentioning that some <i>did </i>serve practical purposes. In a time of heavier clothing and definitely prior to the coming of the zipper, brooches were commonly used as a way to fasten things together. From cloaks to skirts to bags, these accents would start out as bits of steel and iron and would slowly evolve into the beautiful and intricate pieces we see even today. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG64jgBeDvCwTikvFjyU64QRsmRW_xrPAvQilAHVdO5SL4ebYqMLPWiU5-nc5FRYoM0SWEvBydFFMtIFs2uIYNiuYDz-IyIjxyCuWjaYreyGltez5d51CwBSf4qC6Cf62tWHzCDCjvqjU/s1600/cabinet-card1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG64jgBeDvCwTikvFjyU64QRsmRW_xrPAvQilAHVdO5SL4ebYqMLPWiU5-nc5FRYoM0SWEvBydFFMtIFs2uIYNiuYDz-IyIjxyCuWjaYreyGltez5d51CwBSf4qC6Cf62tWHzCDCjvqjU/s400/cabinet-card1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The chatelaine was the equivalent to a women's purse today: carrying anything and everything needed for everyday life. Photo courtesy of www.collectorsweekly.com </td></tr>
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Similarly, the chatelaine would come into fashion as a solution to a lack of pockets. It is essentially a decorative belt which has a series of chains suspended to it, allowing housekeepers of the 19th century to carry everything from scissors and keys, to household seals and even thimbles. In the case of the wealthy and regal of the 16th century, this belt would have a chain that would carry their watch, a true sign of wealth and status. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh44yIQsNy4kndjtqGfj6j7JuHzVyBlPetw1kJb25fY0DwxHdCmsKYk_2CVkCLm9Dp4fyGfHx3zNemOAY1GZcItgRjy9J-fsvVrL08Ds4iTMzjCwkArPf2b313RncdEvMEses1LX-7Y0X4/s1600/cartier+gragon+watch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh44yIQsNy4kndjtqGfj6j7JuHzVyBlPetw1kJb25fY0DwxHdCmsKYk_2CVkCLm9Dp4fyGfHx3zNemOAY1GZcItgRjy9J-fsvVrL08Ds4iTMzjCwkArPf2b313RncdEvMEses1LX-7Y0X4/s320/cartier+gragon+watch.png" width="224" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hardly inconspicious, this Cartier timepiece present in this year's SIHH High Jewelry Watch Collection represents everything people mean by blurring lines between watch and jewel. Photo courtesy of www.cartier.com </td></tr>
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But even today, the timepiece is considered by some as jewelry, due to the incredible craftsmanship and delivery of gemstones and precious metals on the outside of already complex movements within. Curiously, a timepiece is fundamentally a practical tool, as it tells the time. </div>
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<b>Jewelry can be symbolic:</b> This is the factor that I find most important in what I do. Outside of everything else that we've discussed so far, people wear jewelry most importantly because there is usually a symbolic meaning to it; something that resonates with them personally. Most people in the industry will make reference to bridal when discussing the symbolism behind jewelry and it's easy to see why: engagement rings and wedding bands have become the ubiquitous symbol of marriage, new beginnings as a couple and everlasting companionship. But just for fun, let me give you another example I experienced recently:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXi8HKWoLApVZ6gklptMkSFKOP7FzCKqQQ6F51Se6z0l65LEl1E0hN4r8pY6DqF0BV3IwJg4I7tqQNO2Z4365MmNd3iD4vlt_HFsjNkHWx_IrfsClUpGwtSieHJnwlgpXfT_13LtwtGnY/s1600/poggenpoel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXi8HKWoLApVZ6gklptMkSFKOP7FzCKqQQ6F51Se6z0l65LEl1E0hN4r8pY6DqF0BV3IwJg4I7tqQNO2Z4365MmNd3iD4vlt_HFsjNkHWx_IrfsClUpGwtSieHJnwlgpXfT_13LtwtGnY/s400/poggenpoel.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refurbishing Jewelry: bringing life back to jewelry one piece at a time. Photo courtesy of www.poggenpoel.com </td></tr>
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A lady came to me the other day with questions regarding the jewelry she had recently inherited from her mother's estate. Out of respect for her mother, she wanted to wear these rings; but she could not comfortably wear these pieces that unfortunately did not reflect her personality and style. She was rightly conflicted, hoping desperately to keep them in the family, for even her daughter to pass on in time. So I immediately proposed something pretty cool. By refurbishing the ring, we could make use of the stones that are in the original, to create something that is more in keeping with her personal style. Furthermore, I suggested that her daughter join us in the process, that way it would be something that they could envision and create together. </div>
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I don't know about you guys, but the idea gave me a thrill and for the lady, a happy tear. Not only are we taking something belonging to the family and passing it on; we're creating a lasting and cherished memory of loved ones working on items symbolising loved ones. </div>
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So I guess what I'm saying is that we all have reasons for wearing jewelry. What's yours?</div>
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-80863742801554181112016-06-19T13:36:00.001-04:002016-06-28T17:11:00.452-04:003 Colored Stones You Should Consider for Your Engagement Ring Today<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: justify;">
Confession time: </div>
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My heart doesn't get fluttery or skip a beat when I see a diamond.</div>
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I know what you're going to say: "But Gen, you're a
gemologist; you talk about diamonds all the time, what's this crazy talk!". As a gemologist, I can certainly
distinguish between a good and bad quality diamond; I love working with
them for clients who adore them; I even geek out every once in while either on this blog or with friends because I'm fascinated by all the science
behind the beauty. But should the day come that I am offered a special
ring from a special someone, I can't say that my heart yearns for a
diamond...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoQP8I8ExWfGuk3CpZdHmViDYFIMOeKTKPF9mNGaFIhfANjVzs4t5WQrpoOecdRNlFGvqDc15YmCQnv-gJAL_HBC0WcsoEedE59iHPI10DNIkY8_jRI5caIc_-NYgVO_bACZNMVRpI20/s1600/fashion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoQP8I8ExWfGuk3CpZdHmViDYFIMOeKTKPF9mNGaFIhfANjVzs4t5WQrpoOecdRNlFGvqDc15YmCQnv-gJAL_HBC0WcsoEedE59iHPI10DNIkY8_jRI5caIc_-NYgVO_bACZNMVRpI20/s320/fashion.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A still of Marilyn in <i>Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953)</i>. Photo courtesy of www.fashionforrealwomen.com</td></tr>
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For a long time I felt like a bit of a freak. What kind of
girl doesn't like diamonds? Aren't they a girl's best friend according to
Marilyn and De Beers? I felt rather relieved a few years back, when a
growing interest in colored stones for engagement rings came onto the scene. Finally I wasn't alone!</div>
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But then I began to see lists emerge of cool alternatives
to diamonds and I realized that the people writing these articles just
didn't get it. While I'm a fervent advocate of wearing only what you love, I do see the folly in using certain gemstones for this kind of ring. An engagement ring is in most cases, a piece of jewelry
that will be worn lovingly everyday, and through pretty much every daily
activity (and yes, pretty much everyone has confided that they do everything from working out, to gardening, to washing dishes whilst wearing their jewelry).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdQvHbCLrU95Rx3s857RgTpeECPz3k1U92f8yePJTf5PVBkivC6PjGj8E3pcQk_5Lz1SmB_oXmuTu-YEbiMO3LXbCjhgrYp8wNCibLw6VhMWzM5f8kQHBaJhSjG9k7gumy44YFe9BvGCY/s1600/ask.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdQvHbCLrU95Rx3s857RgTpeECPz3k1U92f8yePJTf5PVBkivC6PjGj8E3pcQk_5Lz1SmB_oXmuTu-YEbiMO3LXbCjhgrYp8wNCibLw6VhMWzM5f8kQHBaJhSjG9k7gumy44YFe9BvGCY/s320/ask.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical example of a pearl engagement ring. Photo courtesy of www.ask.metafilters.com </td></tr>
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For instance, while people are recommending <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/08/a-midsummer-nights-gleam.html">opals</a> and <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/06/cultured-pearls-world-of-their-own.html">pearls</a> as interesting alternatives, all they're doing is setting their clients up for many trips to the repair shop. This is partly due to the nature of these gemstones; they're both soft, porous materials that are susceptible to crazing and damage when exposed to heat, soaps etc. But also, the methods used to set these gemstones (which take into consideration their particular properties) are not the most robust, making them poor choices for everyday wear. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGXo2MBKJakgeHW6RTOOeHkdv7Z_EFcpxNK2yFrpYz_3YjkBSLYwjLRhYQ_Z7o81A6aM9K1jmLkRaxN95PcCgsuQfbbcrQUdpFB45c8FN38dUheh984XxTEs8tqX9SMrC9nLK8HN1eMQ/s1600/damaged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGXo2MBKJakgeHW6RTOOeHkdv7Z_EFcpxNK2yFrpYz_3YjkBSLYwjLRhYQ_Z7o81A6aM9K1jmLkRaxN95PcCgsuQfbbcrQUdpFB45c8FN38dUheh984XxTEs8tqX9SMrC9nLK8HN1eMQ/s320/damaged.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical example of what can happen to inlays of opal. Photo courtesy of www.hilemanjewelry.wordpress.com</td></tr>
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So in response to these not-so-thoughtful lists, here is an
unashamedly practical list of gemstones that will actually stand the test of time, and more importantly, of life :-)<br />
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<b>Rubies and sapphires</b> are <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/09/3-reasons-why-sapphire-is-queen-among.html">long-standing pillars</a> in the world of colored gemstones and it's easy to see why: They have an exceptional spectrum of color, which is bolstered by their very high lustre; this gives them not only the variety in color, but also the depth that is not usually seen in glassier-looking materials (i.e vitreous tourmaline). They're also durable; Corundum sits at 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, meaning that it is highly scratch-resistant (to a lesser degree than diamond). Additionally, it has no cleavage planes; this means that unlike diamond, which is prone to cleavage if accidentally knocked, ruby and sapphire will not. And while people in the industry are freaking out about the ever-increasing prices in the classic ruby reds and sapphire blues, sapphires of different colors are still very reasonably priced. For instance, fine green sapphire can be purchased at approx 600$/ct (Gem Guide May/June 2016 edition).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72vBaew96W4D_Ih1Xq2RZHxl3Oc4m4Z9iiOH2rMbCPnioPKTJ_frQcthOCUR8530-QxmH2Qu9D1-kp1ygtcleN_2S5vNLNESRqJiYVFYZ1-djrZ6LWLl9mVqfYqHkL5-_8Ymt37RYTeI/s1600/aboutrubyjewelry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72vBaew96W4D_Ih1Xq2RZHxl3Oc4m4Z9iiOH2rMbCPnioPKTJ_frQcthOCUR8530-QxmH2Qu9D1-kp1ygtcleN_2S5vNLNESRqJiYVFYZ1-djrZ6LWLl9mVqfYqHkL5-_8Ymt37RYTeI/s400/aboutrubyjewelry.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruby engagement ring designs. Photo courtesy of www.aboutrubyjewelry.com </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlAdbeE3Ulbkm4knZHW2rfY8bj9PCNMqS3knyfLj2Ddi8C1lie9rAOBF3pxo2reV4V4OJg5-pharGgcM_UCEK_zfjfGPY8EcoFg1KKlNmAfPfjwr5wWVwzQK0BDXFO2kAEQ5mdJnBdNBw/s1600/ken%2526dana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlAdbeE3Ulbkm4knZHW2rfY8bj9PCNMqS3knyfLj2Ddi8C1lie9rAOBF3pxo2reV4V4OJg5-pharGgcM_UCEK_zfjfGPY8EcoFg1KKlNmAfPfjwr5wWVwzQK0BDXFO2kAEQ5mdJnBdNBw/s320/ken%2526dana.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful sapphire engagement from Pinterest account Ken & Dana design</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-VQfxGEKSVjtsvhq1o-P1RCn-OA1Eiopc9uDeCu9cu8dOPkyYbTpOkUQRykh9G-0teLdACWn_BGFzrAPTJ6ggVsFAqk8ZzdQBWiNEDMVvDm2uMY05xsQSzEuhDd2SrjQSIuHE3QLhxo/s1600/etsy.com+sapphire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-VQfxGEKSVjtsvhq1o-P1RCn-OA1Eiopc9uDeCu9cu8dOPkyYbTpOkUQRykh9G-0teLdACWn_BGFzrAPTJ6ggVsFAqk8ZzdQBWiNEDMVvDm2uMY05xsQSzEuhDd2SrjQSIuHE3QLhxo/s1600/etsy.com+sapphire.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lovely green sapphire and diamond engagement ring. Photo courtesy of www.etsy.com</td></tr>
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<b>Spinel </b>has long stood in the shadows of the above-mentioned gemstones. It comes from similar deposits as corundum and for a long time had been mistaken for the latter. With many specimens coming in the same hues as sapphire and ruby, it's easy to understand how the <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/10/tales-from-bergamot-black-prince-ruby.html">mistake</a> could be made prior to gemology. But what I find cool about spinel, is that they sometimes have hues that are slightly deviant from the colors you would typically see in corundum. For those looking for unique tones of color, you'll find it in spinel. They also do not have cleavage planes, and are at level 8 on the Mohs scale (which is still quite scratch-resistant). And for those who enjoy inclusions inside stones, spinels are typically home to trains of octohedral minerals; These inclusions look like mini-versions of what spinels looks like in rough form. Cool huh?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhh4bcvISTnReSbk442IUIhsRU2v8qHRWvOMw0HoaeNXkXg7UQL6UDt5R_ayQMKbXOSxMbZngbjZN16SQVjE-cU1JffAH0qEvpr2Fs7NIJP6TTGiJSAxmyvWbrUTzSJickbSQsJnIeKM/s1600/mahenge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhh4bcvISTnReSbk442IUIhsRU2v8qHRWvOMw0HoaeNXkXg7UQL6UDt5R_ayQMKbXOSxMbZngbjZN16SQVjE-cU1JffAH0qEvpr2Fs7NIJP6TTGiJSAxmyvWbrUTzSJickbSQsJnIeKM/s320/mahenge.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Mahenge spinel and diamond ring. Photo courtesy of www.pricescope.com </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hzEWUcmHV1_n4BmyXC5lTDNsD3OiuDuo2ILAG3OjDRbxvIZ_wBQNDRU4EeXeZClFeToNdfTGvFaaPu7Y6qgeWqroo3eCeliMk261hbzC9PhkPO_LBVVkbr5_1hxLqCkoQcCaNMMHIWU/s1600/teal+spinel+penelli.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hzEWUcmHV1_n4BmyXC5lTDNsD3OiuDuo2ILAG3OjDRbxvIZ_wBQNDRU4EeXeZClFeToNdfTGvFaaPu7Y6qgeWqroo3eCeliMk261hbzC9PhkPO_LBVVkbr5_1hxLqCkoQcCaNMMHIWU/s320/teal+spinel+penelli.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teal or greyish-blue spinel engagement ring. Photo courtesy of Pinterest account Pinelli Belle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvXphRLzMGk-aA09RhKpjyBoL47YYn7aQWB9Mv5bhrwCcO8BaCALUZ44x7b3n-CYN0xd6od6XpMQ7I0Al2j86BggwJ0jcb8gaENYX__ekOfkmUGm6Mz0vmCvUxl0cL7g3T2c-QFurvAI/s1600/mdmaya.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvXphRLzMGk-aA09RhKpjyBoL47YYn7aQWB9Mv5bhrwCcO8BaCALUZ44x7b3n-CYN0xd6od6XpMQ7I0Al2j86BggwJ0jcb8gaENYX__ekOfkmUGm6Mz0vmCvUxl0cL7g3T2c-QFurvAI/s320/mdmaya.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trains of octohedron crystals inside a pink spinel. Photo courtesy of www.mdmayagems.com<b> </b></td></tr>
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<b>Chrysoberyl</b> is not usually a stone that makes these lists and I can't really understand why; it has so much to offer! As an oxide (like the other two families listed), Chrysoberyl is incredibly durable; in terms of scratch resistance, it sits in between corundum and spinel at 8.5, which also contributes to the high lustre it can display. While yellow Chrysoberyl is not the typical canary-yellow hue that people see in diamond, it is more golden (which to me, has always translated as a warmer tone). Chrysoberyl is also the family in which you'll find Alexandrite. As discussed in another <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/06/the-answer-to-previous-post-is-in.html">entry</a>, Alexandrite is a color-change gemstone. For those looking for the stone with an unexpected feature, this one is it. If color and durability wasn't enough, Chrysoberyl is also known for it's cat's eye variety. Its ability to reflect the inclusions inside to look like a cat's eye is something that will truly make any ring stand out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieoUT7405mb5PUOnW5VQlAWVgZeadIfG98YukNGT5Cn2TwuFB2zhL2jWY1Ype5hDWFpGqe4b79ZJAUm82LixXz5FM_sCSBLfYmjohZPgigCHLWfkg38zxy9_TUpUtuITe0tBv73xRiVSg/s1600/yellow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieoUT7405mb5PUOnW5VQlAWVgZeadIfG98YukNGT5Cn2TwuFB2zhL2jWY1Ype5hDWFpGqe4b79ZJAUm82LixXz5FM_sCSBLfYmjohZPgigCHLWfkg38zxy9_TUpUtuITe0tBv73xRiVSg/s320/yellow.jpg" width="314" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exquisite yellow Chrysoberyl. Photo courtesy of www.pricescope.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibMpfQ7Mbhk6KpEBo3EC8fmaH7PDh6vNKtvGD52LmrferppOwVOtMMpgn8MU2oAEZzAsxiWBaa6LjHIXkrM9nRi680iRzktJlnldo1qafQ59ayHuTdf-ZuBqao6Md0AgpEQNPhH1Neks0/s1600/omi+gems.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibMpfQ7Mbhk6KpEBo3EC8fmaH7PDh6vNKtvGD52LmrferppOwVOtMMpgn8MU2oAEZzAsxiWBaa6LjHIXkrM9nRi680iRzktJlnldo1qafQ59ayHuTdf-ZuBqao6Md0AgpEQNPhH1Neks0/s1600/omi+gems.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexandrite and diamond ring Pinterest account Omi Gems </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwSDkEq8dzO-Iy6rK1as_Aq38gVxNzn_6IcHqPNBUBWV7Gz9uLv5vW12QCryiETXbn5VLbeAeDzuwYY12-kbrOzyYZFKr4YlVmU58FavCtnEslJuR9F4UA6oKpkeI7X84Oj0OEL5kb6dc/s1600/lang.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwSDkEq8dzO-Iy6rK1as_Aq38gVxNzn_6IcHqPNBUBWV7Gz9uLv5vW12QCryiETXbn5VLbeAeDzuwYY12-kbrOzyYZFKr4YlVmU58FavCtnEslJuR9F4UA6oKpkeI7X84Oj0OEL5kb6dc/s320/lang.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very fine example of Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl. Photo courtesy of university.langantiques.com</td></tr>
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I've always said it: The jewelry one wears ought to be reflection of one's personality. It is not only a question of style or of loving an item. It becomes us, so to speak. Shouldn't your engagement ring feel the same way?<br />
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If you have a cool engagement ring (diamond, colored stone, or no stone at all), send us a pic! We'd love for you to share your story with us!</div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-88414073140116394352016-05-20T14:25:00.000-04:002016-06-19T13:38:41.749-04:00Mainely Tourmaline<div style="text-align: justify;">
We were recently on a hiking trip in Maine, where we got to take in the lovely scenery that can be found in the Acadia National Park. Our trail lead us to the top of Gorham Mountain, at which point we were standing on the last bit of cliff before the Atlantic Ocean engulfed all of the space beyond. Talk about a breathtaking experience!</div>
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Once back down from our perch, we got more familiar with the landscape down below and we went on the hunt for some gemstones. While Maine is primarily known for its delicious blueberries, epic lobster and the horror master Stephen King (all of which are, by the way, totally boss), it also happens to be a very gemstone-bearing state. Due to the metamorphic rocks that have formed in the region, Maine is home to numerous types of gems including Apatite, Amethyst and Beryl. However, the state gemstone remains Tourmaline and local jewelers were happy to tell us why.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOt8gkgD6GRQk9FVCa93uZ4stKWv2z87gtCASH6_p-zDcE7jczLoFfAMeut7_1dTYAR72DIto2WlcbOC9nPXy6dBxIi8vGiYAC0zOeOX6J-Rg84x3o8PT6JnVqk4MlvWUJ9qWI5sYwMBo/s1600/eureka3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOt8gkgD6GRQk9FVCa93uZ4stKWv2z87gtCASH6_p-zDcE7jczLoFfAMeut7_1dTYAR72DIto2WlcbOC9nPXy6dBxIi8vGiYAC0zOeOX6J-Rg84x3o8PT6JnVqk4MlvWUJ9qWI5sYwMBo/s400/eureka3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting finds in the Dunton mines. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.treasuremountainmining.com/">www.treasuremountainmining.com</a> </td></tr>
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According to our newly-found friends, Tourmaline is the first gemstone to have been commercially mined in the US. The story goes that in 1820, two young students and avid explorers were out on a mineral prospecting trip near Mt. Mica when they noticed a glint of green shining from under the upturned roots of a tree. To their surprise, they had found a beautifully formed green crystal that was loose in the dirt. The following day, there was a massive snow storm which prevented the two from further exploring their findings. In the spring they returned to find crystals in all kinds of colors. When they found enough specimens, they sent them to a mineralogical expert at Yale who would later identify them as Tourmaline.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD5ctmO5vtmFPb3qUEbzaSyEnMEzUkEW5pX_cKNgHbq1eRzb3eSKM5l0pBeU1UXLJ8dbYExdmt6XFYWcltKCEUVOdKcpYOypdx997ZVqvCoXMPlnzjEx2ySH7FXxO3n33OvN-LUR8NjNM/s1600/MicaMine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD5ctmO5vtmFPb3qUEbzaSyEnMEzUkEW5pX_cKNgHbq1eRzb3eSKM5l0pBeU1UXLJ8dbYExdmt6XFYWcltKCEUVOdKcpYOypdx997ZVqvCoXMPlnzjEx2ySH7FXxO3n33OvN-LUR8NjNM/s400/MicaMine.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mine owner Mr. Merrill in 1911 in one of the larger gem-bearing chambers. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.yankeemagazine.com/">www.yankeemagazine.com</a></td></tr>
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Since then, people have been fascinated by the mineralogical prospects in Maine. In time, the mining would make way to the Mica and Feldspar industries. However while searching for these minerals, the residual ore would contain gem quality Tourmaline, and more recently Apatite and Amethyst. </div>
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It's easy to see why there would be a revival of Tourmaline in Maine. I like to call Tourmaline a chameleon stone because it comes in any possible color (tone, hue and saturation) you could think of. To say that it comes in all of the colors of the rainbow would simply not do it justice.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdWk70VKk52_LBrl_kY5oeKSXYSAciecfV_meZzeTH33r5_WswNnXjBrpcS96WDw2rAn80rLXLvHt0RUvs_WF1kQWUsEvgisUrJbd1fbWqHtb9xoF5E-RdeThBSLSuhhPrdEof_Y1QVA/s1600/eureka_zoom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdWk70VKk52_LBrl_kY5oeKSXYSAciecfV_meZzeTH33r5_WswNnXjBrpcS96WDw2rAn80rLXLvHt0RUvs_WF1kQWUsEvgisUrJbd1fbWqHtb9xoF5E-RdeThBSLSuhhPrdEof_Y1QVA/s320/eureka_zoom.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">''Eureka Blue'' teal tourmaline from Maine. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.crossjewelers.com/">www.crossjewelers.com</a> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfxqXGAS2Y0U3RAP_0vGA3kKgge3pQawl2VRJd_v39NBt-1-JU8FvrcEArIEP3ZwwVPb70qrGn6nK3NZZtNJdpOzuE-xQd-B_-awNkvXvVnPaoGtvePaPBbL6vZ19RHTrxQbiqKiHtrw/s1600/Tourmaline-17_80920_960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfxqXGAS2Y0U3RAP_0vGA3kKgge3pQawl2VRJd_v39NBt-1-JU8FvrcEArIEP3ZwwVPb70qrGn6nK3NZZtNJdpOzuE-xQd-B_-awNkvXvVnPaoGtvePaPBbL6vZ19RHTrxQbiqKiHtrw/s400/Tourmaline-17_80920_960.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parti-colored tourmaline. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.4csblog.gia.edu/">www.4csblog.gia.edu</a> </td></tr>
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Not only that, Tourmaline can also be bi-colored, meaning that it will display numerous colors in a single crystal (hence the name parti-color). The most common example of this is watermelon tourmaline. As the name suggests, the crystal grows with pink in the core structure and green on its outer layer. It looks pretty gnarly when it's sliced but even more so when its properly faceted.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3WEoaLmnxaA83GmkGqfIAKfpeyJg3hUyepj_-y9-vSQ4WVuLa5zrXfMeh4HJfdof3JtOdozWfnc1YJD9hilB0dQ3sRjc7KOCQl4EUA5kWWIp6mmVWxrguxM1yWpXdDq3hVKjR-FZj-U0/s1600/watermelon-tourmaline-slice-gemmy-burgundy-core-green-line-rind-TS003tn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3WEoaLmnxaA83GmkGqfIAKfpeyJg3hUyepj_-y9-vSQ4WVuLa5zrXfMeh4HJfdof3JtOdozWfnc1YJD9hilB0dQ3sRjc7KOCQl4EUA5kWWIp6mmVWxrguxM1yWpXdDq3hVKjR-FZj-U0/s1600/watermelon-tourmaline-slice-gemmy-burgundy-core-green-line-rind-TS003tn.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watermelon Tourmaline slice. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.durginsofmaine.com/">www.durginsofmaine.com</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimrY6F3BXlrW1iNy6AhhYNQHf7AXHe-eJvghpdps0z0xAZgLKnVa4eR2vYfdaGtvxUr3v8wQnTJd9IHDwgPvo1d_ii1EMNtrIyWeBUncYqqcDD04ZsXXybmdNiQxoH8k97jTpMwfeGTl0/s1600/untitled+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimrY6F3BXlrW1iNy6AhhYNQHf7AXHe-eJvghpdps0z0xAZgLKnVa4eR2vYfdaGtvxUr3v8wQnTJd9IHDwgPvo1d_ii1EMNtrIyWeBUncYqqcDD04ZsXXybmdNiQxoH8k97jTpMwfeGTl0/s1600/untitled+%25282%2529.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faceted watermelon Tourmaline. Photo courtesy of w<a href="http://www.indulgy.com/">ww.indulgy.com</a> </td></tr>
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Outside of color, Tourmaline is a gem enthusiast's guilty pleasure because its fairly reasonable price allows for the collection of many interesting and colorful specimens.</div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-43358550673632603032016-04-16T11:04:00.002-04:002016-04-16T11:04:31.096-04:00The Luxury Manifesto<div style="text-align: justify;">
About a week ago, an industry magazine published yet another doomsday-style article regarding the meager prospects to be found in the Millennial consumer pool for diamond jewelry. They had produced market research to substantiate this; painting Millennials as broke, undiscerning hipsters fried by technology, more concerned by their electronics and ''experiencing life'' than in the luxury that is jewelry.</div>
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While I have heard some people from this generation (and the one before for that matter) take this stance and discourse on the matter, I hardly find that this interpretation of valuable market data constructive by my fellow industry authors. Let's look at it this way:</div>
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"Millennials graduated into tough economic times. Compared to our parent’s generation, we have more debt, less job prospects, and are less likely to own a home than the previous two generations”.</div>
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Market research was not needed for that nugget of wisdom. We have all felt how our wage-earning does not match the expanding cost of living. That said, it would not be the first generation to feel this kind of austerity. If we consider for a moment the generation that grew up in and worked through the Great Depression, these were people who knew disastrously dire circumstances which involved no job prospects, and home-owning was no where in sight for most; that's not even counting the looming threat of WW2. However, as the world emerged out of this time, people did not lose the desire to own luxurious things. In fact the prosperity that would come post-WW2 gave birth to the jewelry trend that we know as Retro. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUegHGK4ntNGlOzHfrptq3oGlexjHKflf8TOoAZu_4kIffxnOSholzskbFThw77N7yz2waj2buqvCr4Ok3DMImkPQ65RctypQ7PiRimo58xLfhx4hgskfbDUgCx5jBLsVis1A6nO57vmg/s1600/3163504604_46e2487104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUegHGK4ntNGlOzHfrptq3oGlexjHKflf8TOoAZu_4kIffxnOSholzskbFThw77N7yz2waj2buqvCr4Ok3DMImkPQ65RctypQ7PiRimo58xLfhx4hgskfbDUgCx5jBLsVis1A6nO57vmg/s400/3163504604_46e2487104.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big, bold and beautiful: Typically Retro jewelry. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.gemgossip.com/">www.gemgossip.com</a></td></tr>
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If the industry could survive these austere times, it is because like everything else, it has learnt to evolve. Like our previous counterparts, we will have to evolve to accommodate our changing market. If your consumer market is undiscerning, perhaps it's worth developing programs and campaigns designed to show people the value of owning jewelry; that costume jewelry is just that, for costumes.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5GXSrj1PKJvG2VGgMOp_awQCWs0IiIO3KUeEwT5Fl8EASdwWif_1PwGBEHqJWGUcpL4_ukSdDEOaTrclyZNevngrTLe58l2KHvK0cuhkW7KbVb4g4wcyLvUh-rjhuuQp2ZY9vUpP4fw/s1600/article-2117157-123D5A26000005DC-577_1024x615_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5GXSrj1PKJvG2VGgMOp_awQCWs0IiIO3KUeEwT5Fl8EASdwWif_1PwGBEHqJWGUcpL4_ukSdDEOaTrclyZNevngrTLe58l2KHvK0cuhkW7KbVb4g4wcyLvUh-rjhuuQp2ZY9vUpP4fw/s320/article-2117157-123D5A26000005DC-577_1024x615_large.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Costume jewelry. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/">www.dailymail.co.uk</a> </td></tr>
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If your consumer market finds diamonds too formal, perhaps it's time to consider opening up to colored stones, and not just the ''big three''. Perhaps rather than focusing on jewelry as the gift you receive in the context of an anniversary for instance (remember, the relationship spectrum has greatly changed over the years), you can develop campaigns that are about making someone feel special just because, or even doing something nice for yourself.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjla9lxTYlYOl4gG_QIvbaHi9UQHsy6URiwWqqjKJIEqhyphenhyphen2zb-iBOTZe6UIl9sK4Q2jR3pHX7vBDUEcW1QpxZnl_87XOcfpowVFyLLmexnxqxvomcsXiG3luIE_BU_4ghs5elvxTUU1scc/s1600/Just-because.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="70" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjla9lxTYlYOl4gG_QIvbaHi9UQHsy6URiwWqqjKJIEqhyphenhyphen2zb-iBOTZe6UIl9sK4Q2jR3pHX7vBDUEcW1QpxZnl_87XOcfpowVFyLLmexnxqxvomcsXiG3luIE_BU_4ghs5elvxTUU1scc/s400/Just-because.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just because.... Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.flowerbasket.au/">www.flowerbasket.au</a></td></tr>
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If you say that the consumer market is increasingly craving authentic experiences, why not offer it? I've personally seen a growing interest in custom design jewelry (mostly refurbishing old jewelry). Why is that? Because rather than picking out something ready made, they can have a direct hand in creating something totally unique while making use of something that is already close to them (usually an heirloom). For good measure, you can even offer to create a 3-D design of the item you will create thanks to CAD-CAM technology, making good on this generation's obsession with electronics.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVbKQxFmg5Pwy9Wj20BwwTC_d3TLrxB3jzDtHQdURzMPBKStm90ZDh05WNJwD4kSayL4oe5qtY2mixPBZtUXt0B3M9myndRhngqDzrj2HysgzpAXvnCWkzZpT-oAC_Z_YlWSTS4sTBdE/s1600/victorian_filigree_ring_dual.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVbKQxFmg5Pwy9Wj20BwwTC_d3TLrxB3jzDtHQdURzMPBKStm90ZDh05WNJwD4kSayL4oe5qtY2mixPBZtUXt0B3M9myndRhngqDzrj2HysgzpAXvnCWkzZpT-oAC_Z_YlWSTS4sTBdE/s320/victorian_filigree_ring_dual.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CAD-CAM technology at work . Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.cadjewellryskills.com/">www.cadjewellryskills.com</a></td></tr>
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I hardly think that the Millennial consumer pool is ringing the death toll on our industry. Rather than looking at our current market with nostalgic sighs, asking why it couldn't be more like the one that came before; more proactively we should be telling ourselves that we'll just have to get more creative.</div>
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Are you in?</div>
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-49232753763449241792016-04-10T10:44:00.000-04:002016-08-15T12:30:13.852-04:00Taking the Holes Out of Porosity<div style="text-align: justify;">
I came across a fairly recently cast ring the other day for evaluation (insurance purposes). As I was assessing its quality, I noticed some visible pits on the shoulders and on the prongs of the ring that I thought warranted some discussion with the client before going on with the appraisal. I already knew what this was, but there was something he could confirm for me. When I got a hold of him, I asked if the jeweler had done the work quickly. "Oh yes, he answered. Turned it around in less than a week for me!''. Bingo. This client had a classic case of porosity on his ring, very likely due to the casting which was done too quickly.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTrt9HlGqCXexcPrvzacI_mUHRYCBl3XgWgLI-v7wutd51AFU7WRWzeRlSxLopDUQved-Hl7-bRtwUbE52knS8OHBz7uuJu_SfpvL7l0z2yPwI5yTD9vYzK1pBtOR2P7bL_Fyj9cgVx4/s1600/porosity_example.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTrt9HlGqCXexcPrvzacI_mUHRYCBl3XgWgLI-v7wutd51AFU7WRWzeRlSxLopDUQved-Hl7-bRtwUbE52knS8OHBz7uuJu_SfpvL7l0z2yPwI5yTD9vYzK1pBtOR2P7bL_Fyj9cgVx4/s320/porosity_example.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In more extensive cases such as this one, porosity can compromise the structure and the setting of the item, and would require recasting. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.daysjewelers.com/">www.daysjewelers.com</a> </td></tr>
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What is porosity exactly? If you've ever made a cake, you'll know there are ingredients used to make bubbles in the batter that allow it to rise. While this is done intentionally in cake, it is not in jewelry. In recent years, casting precious metals into molds and waxes has become the most popular form of manufacturing jewelry. Roughly 95% of gold jewelry is produced this way and I can understand why: it's cost effective, less labor intensive, and successfully replicates designs (which is perfect for ring refurbishment). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmWiv50r1nitPT51IcyZK3f2Kvxoa9gNMagMrnX50k6LiqwTL6NLUFfN7n3jhVTfm9t2OCjwDroULCzhApKVrWvY9Q7FgOwl6HDNlZ310tyZU_iDSm4wY6e3ZkIFCwyVpnC0o1E_1fPc/s1600/0403pbd01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmWiv50r1nitPT51IcyZK3f2Kvxoa9gNMagMrnX50k6LiqwTL6NLUFfN7n3jhVTfm9t2OCjwDroULCzhApKVrWvY9Q7FgOwl6HDNlZ310tyZU_iDSm4wY6e3ZkIFCwyVpnC0o1E_1fPc/s1600/0403pbd01.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of surface-reaching pits. Possibly just superficial porosity. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.professionaljeweler.com/">www.professionaljeweler.com</a> </td></tr>
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The downside to this method is that the high temperatures used to obtain molten metal also allows the metal to absorb gases (usually hydrogen). If the work is too hastily cast and forces are not applied to drive these bubbles out, the bubbles get trapped in the cooled material. Mild pits in jewelry are in the best of cases a blemish that can be repaired fairly easily. In extensive cases which involve full bubbles, cracks and folds, or where these pits or bubbles have gathered in crucial structural parts of ring, this can be a sign of a structure that is inherently weak and may break in time. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkKDhvYvUUdbZ0JwRvqtFhzMntYU-pjtYK7L1MHElb-7Vbdybr37e8ZXv9oGv3OUvmVR7SirhBh6lDGt3AaMXAfogLsnG17A4zVRtN8ZEQOuufj39eDjHVslLWQ4rPN6iQxdbXUhtiNvM/s1600/hqdefault.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkKDhvYvUUdbZ0JwRvqtFhzMntYU-pjtYK7L1MHElb-7Vbdybr37e8ZXv9oGv3OUvmVR7SirhBh6lDGt3AaMXAfogLsnG17A4zVRtN8ZEQOuufj39eDjHVslLWQ4rPN6iQxdbXUhtiNvM/s320/hqdefault.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Filling porosity pits in a ring. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.orionwelders.com/">www.orionwelders.com</a> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7elFZeJZmSd-tpND7pR5uDLIH7M24UWHwIKF_wKfkYDE5Lm3NXD6dipjX0vDLp-Vu5J9bzpKYjX3ks6mZ7suE_6MJoXeU2McGyGnqYHDNyX67cX41nxRgfnUvhYaOM_vN9Ws9gE49qys/s1600/4b3e296fa4a7b7e8817e7110274111b3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7elFZeJZmSd-tpND7pR5uDLIH7M24UWHwIKF_wKfkYDE5Lm3NXD6dipjX0vDLp-Vu5J9bzpKYjX3ks6mZ7suE_6MJoXeU2McGyGnqYHDNyX67cX41nxRgfnUvhYaOM_vN9Ws9gE49qys/s320/4b3e296fa4a7b7e8817e7110274111b3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A proactive solution to porosity is also to avoid using wax molds such as this one which have defects which can in turn produce cavities in the finished product. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/">www.pinterest.com</a> </td></tr>
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So what can be done about porosity in jewelry? Well this is all really dependent on how extensive the porosity is. If there are only superficial blemishes like pits, some jewelers will elect to fills the pits by soldering gold into them and then to rebuff the overall piece. If it's uncertain how extensive it is, the prudent jeweler will propose to recast the jewelry altogether. My personal experience has been that the reputable jewelers that detect these defects in their jewelry will opt for the recasting, as it means peace of mind for both the jeweler and the client. As for my client from earlier, I proposed that the client see his jeweler to make these changes before appraising his ring. His jeweler took care of it free of charge.</div>
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Have you ever experienced this kind of issue with your jewelry?</div>
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-85130754052339451902016-03-20T23:55:00.001-04:002016-03-20T23:56:14.871-04:00Waves of Aqua<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRfR_yL_avAmKIPxj2T57URL7vASKITk_aMrXYRX1dhzgYk1y2mzXYKLrG2eQPMBNidJEDVzvzEU5mGbU7jwCTwBqOVcnGv900b9M1s6RRSP4u5EiZQ3CtnRpDO5xqlfpVrTYMd9q5xoI/s1600/wave.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="367" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRfR_yL_avAmKIPxj2T57URL7vASKITk_aMrXYRX1dhzgYk1y2mzXYKLrG2eQPMBNidJEDVzvzEU5mGbU7jwCTwBqOVcnGv900b9M1s6RRSP4u5EiZQ3CtnRpDO5xqlfpVrTYMd9q5xoI/s400/wave.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.motherearthreiki.com</td></tr>
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Ever been caught up in a great big wave? Water seems all by itself very innocuous, harmless even. At times it feels tranquil and peaceful; but in an instant, it can become stormy and powerfully devastating. It seems fitting that people before us selected aquamarine as the stone to represent all of these feelings; using it as an amulet for health and happiness in times of peace, but also as protection against the perils of stormy seas. It even has the cool color to match...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJEtaolbLKX4z3Z7Lmd6yzXfsbdhSdu2_V0T6gueAExvhhAyvWOJo174gACvmlrHsjxy26B_Zyn8tplpn4E7KFeDTBd8Ubs_O8ohTp71-sr3zkY_Pze7-NOdmejfEw878puLgqNlmhyphenhyphenVg/s1600/Aquamarine_trillion_cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJEtaolbLKX4z3Z7Lmd6yzXfsbdhSdu2_V0T6gueAExvhhAyvWOJo174gACvmlrHsjxy26B_Zyn8tplpn4E7KFeDTBd8Ubs_O8ohTp71-sr3zkY_Pze7-NOdmejfEw878puLgqNlmhyphenhyphenVg/s1600/Aquamarine_trillion_cut.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A trillion-cut aquamarine. Photo courtesy of www.minerals.net</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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What is aquamarine? It's a gemstone from the beryl family, meaning that it is a brother to stones such as heliodor and the more famous emerald. Unlike emerald however, aquamarine in its best quality is a fairly inclusion-free stone, which makes it a lot less difficult to cut. When it does bear inclusions, a tell-tale sign of a natural aquamarine is the tube-like inclusions resembling ''rainfall". It is the more commonly known birthstone of March and is best known for its enchanting blue-green color. While some people covet the pure light blue color which is generally induced through heating, the greenish-blue hue is a beautiful sight to behold.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5XZHTrMiCrb6x8D3tS3ZfrlR1JR50mhddNTYzVAXgm-N5DZHYK7U8AKpTVrGwfWOKl6grih1RgQoNJcA2SF1QF68uSucc-PswsrJa9rKlhnNPNX7hPJjk8LiGMxEKm74jQ5FA56xcFbY/s1600/pala.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5XZHTrMiCrb6x8D3tS3ZfrlR1JR50mhddNTYzVAXgm-N5DZHYK7U8AKpTVrGwfWOKl6grih1RgQoNJcA2SF1QF68uSucc-PswsrJa9rKlhnNPNX7hPJjk8LiGMxEKm74jQ5FA56xcFbY/s640/pala.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rough crystal of aquamarine in its typical growth structure and etching along the faces. Photo courtesy of m.palamineral.com</td></tr>
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It comes out of nature looking quite intriguing, really. Though they come in all sizes, aquamarine is most beautiful in rough form when they grow to be large hexagonal prisms. It is then that we can see the fascinating etch marks that run up and down the faces of the crystal. Not one is ever similar to the other, which makes each crystal a discovery of sorts.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIClntD9m8HWcJMD1jNJILV2wI_d8rEyZ2mTzZ94m13_BrX-xfWpjtVuM77-a7JExKarwfLzzmOdSL7Ckht8RVk_aqOeyAB7taRqocvEV0SMGBYTKVuoHvUUqCzw0APwlWQtgjXDCy0K8/s1600/flickriver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIClntD9m8HWcJMD1jNJILV2wI_d8rEyZ2mTzZ94m13_BrX-xfWpjtVuM77-a7JExKarwfLzzmOdSL7Ckht8RVk_aqOeyAB7taRqocvEV0SMGBYTKVuoHvUUqCzw0APwlWQtgjXDCy0K8/s400/flickriver.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption"> The Dom Pedro Aquamarine at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. Photo courtesy of www.fickriver.com</td></tr>
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There are some exceptional specimens which grace the halls of great museums, however this hardly means that aquamarine is an unattainable gemstone. In fact, it's a stone which is quite tolerant to everyday wear; which makes it a great choice for jewelry. While of course it's always recommended to treat your gems carefully, aquamarine has a fairly high hardness level which lends itself to both casual and evening wear. It is not recommended to clean them in an ultrasonic machine if heavily included; however a simple cleaning with mild soap and a toothbrush is enough to restore its beautiful luster.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQEn5IYo9PpZVF6jez7X7KrtBnkUsviP8S9fl6yoTW2EeYB5BIy3z5Ie2fBQEHWSqhUSs6zhHVHPRlUhhCVKmFnLr2JPlWPOip6T8Ooq_o60GfdfINGN7qfpOUrLa7w3GaTsmCruSpTDI/s1600/rings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQEn5IYo9PpZVF6jez7X7KrtBnkUsviP8S9fl6yoTW2EeYB5BIy3z5Ie2fBQEHWSqhUSs6zhHVHPRlUhhCVKmFnLr2JPlWPOip6T8Ooq_o60GfdfINGN7qfpOUrLa7w3GaTsmCruSpTDI/s320/rings.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.pinterest.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UEZVOEvjt5iwucDSdXM4S-vXxm-IhcVDUAFxFavfMFCYj0xiTu7EXEE225PTYmo1edRxspuOu5MTnIiX5hJRwof9H2zV6f8E_x4K_EH_mSBgbLH95hIjM-l7w9Xo5wI2I52qfX-uhpc/s1600/aqua+ring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UEZVOEvjt5iwucDSdXM4S-vXxm-IhcVDUAFxFavfMFCYj0xiTu7EXEE225PTYmo1edRxspuOu5MTnIiX5hJRwof9H2zV6f8E_x4K_EH_mSBgbLH95hIjM-l7w9Xo5wI2I52qfX-uhpc/s320/aqua+ring.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aquamarine ring. Photo courtesy of www.glamour.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1b-I72IsxnM7t10CA3MAohBRWs2Zs4SNb6YNR8br9qQXpSH7xrvc5NJ9oOw5q4KSaNxUWEhR_-aXsBFPiwHpqYwfZnpcllVEA0LC2SendAGOFsLja0fC_253EWHfJfc1-NCvQWyOV918/s1600/earrings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1b-I72IsxnM7t10CA3MAohBRWs2Zs4SNb6YNR8br9qQXpSH7xrvc5NJ9oOw5q4KSaNxUWEhR_-aXsBFPiwHpqYwfZnpcllVEA0LC2SendAGOFsLja0fC_253EWHfJfc1-NCvQWyOV918/s400/earrings.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dangle earrings featuring aquamarine and diamond. Photo courtesy of www.tiffany.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQg1ZfjzgOj_OL_PglYhA1lygHvW9t5BBgH5x2R1gk7q1_QdPP3GZRcw7iRpQbzCGseNww_MSrqahAJyc-baniGpca1p80vKdXMf-xVdjDgHxhhozvVxHt95UxJCCOCEmf1ee1tpqGBYM/s1600/wanelo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQg1ZfjzgOj_OL_PglYhA1lygHvW9t5BBgH5x2R1gk7q1_QdPP3GZRcw7iRpQbzCGseNww_MSrqahAJyc-baniGpca1p80vKdXMf-xVdjDgHxhhozvVxHt95UxJCCOCEmf1ee1tpqGBYM/s320/wanelo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough aquamarine in jewelry. Photo courtesy of www.wanelo.com</td></tr>
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I've always loved to watch waves rush up to the shore and then pull back away. It's entrancing, almost like it's calling out for you to join the tide. Finding such a feeling in a stone is so singular, don't you think?</div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-31664720987558872792016-03-06T10:19:00.000-05:002016-06-13T18:04:48.300-04:00Are You Seeing Stars? We Are!<div style="text-align: justify;">
Asterisms recently made the news when a giant star sapphire was discovered in Sri Lanka; the owners claim that it is indeed the largest sapphire displaying an asterism ever found. They intend to sell the "Star of Adam" at auction with the stone currently valued at 100 million dollars. But what is an asterism exactly and how does it occur? Where and how often does it happen?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWXndQnAX59gCYY4PlfHhCPyuyFZRLn4ovvBajY69xznHxvEt2LHQ6QQ7oi2wgl7GaOXjjODgU_5QMwNdVohVCv21-BV0wCHAWyZlf7BHNH4JZMTns5pwju-_avme7e7CMq7zM6ZS7xY/s1600/star+of+adam+bbc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWXndQnAX59gCYY4PlfHhCPyuyFZRLn4ovvBajY69xznHxvEt2LHQ6QQ7oi2wgl7GaOXjjODgU_5QMwNdVohVCv21-BV0wCHAWyZlf7BHNH4JZMTns5pwju-_avme7e7CMq7zM6ZS7xY/s400/star+of+adam+bbc.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ''Star of Adam'', weighing in at 1404.09cts is said to be the world's largest sapphire. Photo courtesy of www.bbc.com</td></tr>
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An asterism, as the name suggests, is a reflection effect that is seen in some gemstones that takes the shape of a star. It's the result of light reflecting off of the many intersecting inclusions inside the stone. While most gemstones are regularly sought after for their clarity or lack of inclusions, in asterism-bearing gems, it is these very inclusions which give them value. But not just any inclusions can induce this phenomenon; certain conditions are required to produce this:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZwF-fInGaf7Dcr6tcmBlQGuO48UakkRYY1DE9SRJqoQTv-cfmQMsjmFDS62KRBxPC9jXBL71hYxRygITRZHy8esn6SlY83rSQhYtWvzFT-EoyqTss0pHL5ocX6TtbJ-J3V24KMh3CM4w/s1600/5+Image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZwF-fInGaf7Dcr6tcmBlQGuO48UakkRYY1DE9SRJqoQTv-cfmQMsjmFDS62KRBxPC9jXBL71hYxRygITRZHy8esn6SlY83rSQhYtWvzFT-EoyqTss0pHL5ocX6TtbJ-J3V24KMh3CM4w/s400/5+Image.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diagram illustrating the parallel and long inclusions crossing in different directions to create the asterism effect. Photo courtesy of www.creslagems.com</td></tr>
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1) The inclusions are generally:</div>
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- Long</div>
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- Thin</div>
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- Numerous</div>
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- Parallel to one another</div>
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These can be made up of anything from tube-like cavities, to rutile crystals (as is the case in sapphire). If this were not enough, there needs to be at least two oriented sets of inclusions that intersect in order to produce the star shape; so it takes quite the included material to achieve this. When light hits these inclusions, the reflection effect will occur at a right angle, creating the star-shape that you see both in the diagram above, and the picture below.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPr-JIvAQCSogoszW36fbcQvMhWIFIQeyYWLRUvAGFRlNUXhnPq8UaQYjYID-GWRBPYNwaoSI5AZdaItyxKDeooq5a4MnXaEaAUvOA0TFFNaalmXKqVrs_jZe3-ET9KovxjZzlRVtjt0U/s1600/asterism.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPr-JIvAQCSogoszW36fbcQvMhWIFIQeyYWLRUvAGFRlNUXhnPq8UaQYjYID-GWRBPYNwaoSI5AZdaItyxKDeooq5a4MnXaEaAUvOA0TFFNaalmXKqVrs_jZe3-ET9KovxjZzlRVtjt0U/s320/asterism.jpg" width="286" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An asterism-bearing corundum, with arrows showing the likely location of the inclusions causing the effect. Photo courtesy of a reader, Marine Explorer.</td></tr>
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2) The cut of a stone is also important. Ideally, the stone should be cut into a cabochon, or a polished rounded surface. This is because the effect is best seen rolling off of this rounded surface. Further, the cabochon lends its flat base to better display this effect.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSYxdZ1C5cfq_d_2ld3v45xrK8yLTwjhDT-lnTnE-jI22LSUaksVN2S5GVVeznxVD4JEtCBxXg5uK-_h10UZObdY6HgF_7mlR-BhSlquFvWvQkSonS-q-Kq9kPB_VkNWgtQFo2A32exA/s1600/star-ruby-large+gem+select.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSYxdZ1C5cfq_d_2ld3v45xrK8yLTwjhDT-lnTnE-jI22LSUaksVN2S5GVVeznxVD4JEtCBxXg5uK-_h10UZObdY6HgF_7mlR-BhSlquFvWvQkSonS-q-Kq9kPB_VkNWgtQFo2A32exA/s320/star-ruby-large+gem+select.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A star-ruby displaying the hexagonal growth structure typically seen in ruby. Photo courtesy of www.gemselect.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGr83CgtxLjUHQwKOzeGgpF4YXV3jWJKQFzjLok1spsEybEfOQCSI0tunqUTLEh2p3sMJVY3uVJIszO45-dYmtzq_xCBalRW0wNAZFbtTA1i0TnonRWSKjmcHbFFPS0Fetmfr_gR0gzHw/s1600/star-diopside-cabochon+gemselect.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGr83CgtxLjUHQwKOzeGgpF4YXV3jWJKQFzjLok1spsEybEfOQCSI0tunqUTLEh2p3sMJVY3uVJIszO45-dYmtzq_xCBalRW0wNAZFbtTA1i0TnonRWSKjmcHbFFPS0Fetmfr_gR0gzHw/s1600/star-diopside-cabochon+gemselect.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Star-diopside with its typical 4-branched star. Photo courtesy of www.gemselect.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQD3KwHaeIcXu_9sOUdmAABqVWNIv9MsDDfmOji8NjLfx-zVzV_FbgpRrOrUzhXmQeKbMf_8bATtG5NIQ7qL6OyMyC5G_8qX7JjUA6zjJVdeMoh4HY46Wx3FLB7svT7cPrjU0aOLkCNo/s1600/Moonstone-asterism+onlinejeweller.org.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQD3KwHaeIcXu_9sOUdmAABqVWNIv9MsDDfmOji8NjLfx-zVzV_FbgpRrOrUzhXmQeKbMf_8bATtG5NIQ7qL6OyMyC5G_8qX7JjUA6zjJVdeMoh4HY46Wx3FLB7svT7cPrjU0aOLkCNo/s400/Moonstone-asterism+onlinejeweller.org.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rarely seen asterism in moonstone. Photo courtesy of www.onlinejeweller.org</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1E3PnpqmWVpCNtSbZFojLB__i4FoXbsiAlJi_UWvpmY2QElKNlaThxSfnHnA7Uwue3le5Q138DFFVRIYCOtojF18xbl4gxmuduAOjn_oUfUU_FtPDWqrFVapbI37p33MrNK9f9XOwxoE/s1600/garnet+asterism+pinterest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1E3PnpqmWVpCNtSbZFojLB__i4FoXbsiAlJi_UWvpmY2QElKNlaThxSfnHnA7Uwue3le5Q138DFFVRIYCOtojF18xbl4gxmuduAOjn_oUfUU_FtPDWqrFVapbI37p33MrNK9f9XOwxoE/s320/garnet+asterism+pinterest.jpg" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Star-Almandine, showing the angled 4 branches typically seen in garnet. Photo courtesy of www.pinterest.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiasOvxeR2Bdpg5ZumZGYVhVgwed3-E4o-8We0EggxREYLBZG_3VnaMttFeMy7HOTVroTu3XHTL9ORl7hxU7OWyr2q83gEiI5XWHuPZLIJfG4KB9mY1fiHf4G4Fyfmhxsm9iSF0zXAEbtE/s1600/rsqs216a-rose-quartz-sphere.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiasOvxeR2Bdpg5ZumZGYVhVgwed3-E4o-8We0EggxREYLBZG_3VnaMttFeMy7HOTVroTu3XHTL9ORl7hxU7OWyr2q83gEiI5XWHuPZLIJfG4KB9mY1fiHf4G4Fyfmhxsm9iSF0zXAEbtE/s320/rsqs216a-rose-quartz-sphere.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rose quartz manifesting asterism. Photo courtesy of www.mineralminers.com</td></tr>
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So in what stones do asterisms occur? As mentioned earlier, it's the included materials that will display this effect; meaning that this can be seen in quite a few stones: you'll see this generally in rubies, sapphires, spinel, rose quartz (which can even display diasterism-12 branched star), garnet, diopside and in rare cases, moonstone. Stars can also have varied appearances based on the number of branches they possess; This can allow us to distinguish them. For instance, diopside has a 4-branch star whose branches are generally 90 degrees from one another, whereas garnet will display 4 branches at a slight angle. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhojR6Jahc4H9PUqAmzM_FjFTWi6qIg60aoOuJEhQwYcOtG1mN1eYjHZauRvOqbpqvcvOvS7NgAXQgDUPEpabU8ikwJ1GSlSBb4rPjjIBB1gunCyCheBedoa9y3UX3jpIYCwmhKijpHMg/s1600/synthetic+star+sapphire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhojR6Jahc4H9PUqAmzM_FjFTWi6qIg60aoOuJEhQwYcOtG1mN1eYjHZauRvOqbpqvcvOvS7NgAXQgDUPEpabU8ikwJ1GSlSBb4rPjjIBB1gunCyCheBedoa9y3UX3jpIYCwmhKijpHMg/s400/synthetic+star+sapphire.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Examples of disclosed synthetic star-sapphires. Photo courtesy of www.gia.edu</td></tr>
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While synthetic materials in these gemstones have the ability to manifest this phenomenon as well, thankfully they are fairly easy to detect. Naturally occurring asterisms in gemstones will often have a hazy, almost blurred appearance, which is quite normal for anything produced in Nature. By comparison, the asterisms seen in synthetic materials are often too sharp and distinctively fine. It's very much one of those "too good to be true'' scenarios.</div>
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In case you were wondering, not all asterism-bearing materials have million dollar price tags (thank goodness!). In the case of star-sapphire for example, prices average anywhere between 1200-1600$ US per carat, when dealing in the finer quality materials. Let us know if you'd like to have one in your arsenal! </div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-21181864601397320112016-02-14T15:54:00.000-05:002016-02-20T17:55:35.361-05:00Beauty is in The Eye of the Beholder<div style="text-align: justify;">
While this can be said about people, we can also say this about gems. Though usually deemed less desirable because of its I color, I1 clarity grade, this particular diamond is a keeper of a surprising Valentine's day message. I'm sure on this day, both couples and single people alike will warm their hearts to this lovely sight. Happy Heart Day!!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUXUmR9jYBQrwhT_dQa-vqq1a-kaGXDs2G-scJVr7Wq8gJ1n1kRtHrEWZHfLJmSa4yYXqVstQCX_XghP_bTsQ5HKOusPdQM5wJW5dTwtKbk83vPDfhK60USniR8LOHiildNH63FbNvGY/s1600/Satellite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUXUmR9jYBQrwhT_dQa-vqq1a-kaGXDs2G-scJVr7Wq8gJ1n1kRtHrEWZHfLJmSa4yYXqVstQCX_XghP_bTsQ5HKOusPdQM5wJW5dTwtKbk83vPDfhK60USniR8LOHiildNH63FbNvGY/s320/Satellite.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A heart-shaped pyrope garnet inclusion in a 2ct diamond (I color, I1 clarity). Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.gia.edu/">www.gia.edu</a> </td></tr>
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-67815990373434975852016-02-10T23:23:00.000-05:002016-02-11T09:16:22.904-05:00The Precious Metal Conundrum: Platinum vs. White Gold<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was recently helping a client with the creation of his engagement ring when he plainly asked me which precious metal was the "best" metal. His question was not uncommon: people are of course seeking enduring symbols of their commitment, especially when they can be so expensive. He had settled for a white metal, but could not really distinguish between platinum and white gold. While I could not give favor to one metal over another, there are certainly pros and cons for each to consider:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxKLrsHB9DRN7i8ShvNKbEyTLh_VqI_ddelwOqPOTeCKXqHI8KLCWDvCt4hUZXIWewkY4jxH-dTn8mv0QR7IqHWRNU-SVvF6xqfcZaxyL_og7c13m-peThA-9og1Cmg3vWWK8FF_evj0/s1600/youcanbook.me.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxKLrsHB9DRN7i8ShvNKbEyTLh_VqI_ddelwOqPOTeCKXqHI8KLCWDvCt4hUZXIWewkY4jxH-dTn8mv0QR7IqHWRNU-SVvF6xqfcZaxyL_og7c13m-peThA-9og1Cmg3vWWK8FF_evj0/s200/youcanbook.me.png" width="121" /></a></div>
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<b>1)Price</b>: Practically speaking, metals, like gemstones are sold by weight. So while both platinum and gold are considered rare mined materials and thus their value reflects this status, you will find that platinum is also much more expensive than gold because it is a denser material. Ask to be handed a band of each metal and you will feel the difference instantly. Today gold was selling at 1682.24$/oz. whereas platinum sells for 1302.47$/oz.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Bl4PHx0cUlez2v1ucZr62zvBZvBeyepl-UPw4fB5xlH0jyl7lI2JTt7i9W6_-QLISkvmO66Nca8E2vCauJBHaxdB77o4HZO7xex9GVmjtPJFXZSOfBuoE-xdIC7_r4-VRbv6aBGzZB0/s1600/dermatitis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Bl4PHx0cUlez2v1ucZr62zvBZvBeyepl-UPw4fB5xlH0jyl7lI2JTt7i9W6_-QLISkvmO66Nca8E2vCauJBHaxdB77o4HZO7xex9GVmjtPJFXZSOfBuoE-xdIC7_r4-VRbv6aBGzZB0/s320/dermatitis.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of allergic reactions to base metals. Photo courtesy of www.kamani.co.nz </td></tr>
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<b>2) Allergies</b>: Research shows that about 10% of the population has some form of allergic reaction to the base metals (such as nickel or copper); these alloys are mixed into gold which allow it to keep its shape. People will often try to counterbalance this by selecting a higher grade of gold content like 18kt gold. Alternatively, platinum finds itself to be 950/1000 parts, meaning that it is relatively pure. Thus it has been marketed as the industry's most hypoallergenic material.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZrbYTVvgWnArgwF9WOvydPackAQNvJ5i5n9NgheWH7EESFjQt9VxgVdkFyMtKAJ88nZKitkxXa1zPGqTy7DUgRCCC1qQVTC7D1_Q9MbyQ9Q0X1Lxxltewy6Y3C214-lXFNIVubOK0Nw/s1600/white+gold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZrbYTVvgWnArgwF9WOvydPackAQNvJ5i5n9NgheWH7EESFjQt9VxgVdkFyMtKAJ88nZKitkxXa1zPGqTy7DUgRCCC1qQVTC7D1_Q9MbyQ9Q0X1Lxxltewy6Y3C214-lXFNIVubOK0Nw/s400/white+gold.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slight differences between white gold that has not been plated, that has been rhodium-plated, and where the plating has worn off in time. Photo Courtesy of www.callagold.com </td></tr>
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<b>3) Color</b>: As mentioned earlier, 18kt white gold is alloyed with other base metals in order to maintain shape, but alloys are also used in order to alter the color of the metal. In nature, gold is only yellow/golden. Because of its degree of metal purity, in time 18kt white gold will take on slightly yellow tinges. By comparison, platinum is again, relatively pure; and because it is found in nature as a white metal, the metal will stay as white as the day it was bought.</div>
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<b>4)</b> <b>Wear</b>: I didn't use the word durability here because it can be rather misleading. There are a couple of things to consider here:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0O_41-owHc_8fXoSaKx1aQ1kc3eRakLgsJDxvFTGklu-sSFHBm83zWSCPAl928gcrczmGEhJRGFFDWXEHq89bhwuZA6Cggs0Ir0ZkhlM3FuM-b1xwypt2iDiin5hyphenhyphenKZw7A5WIbYosY-A/s1600/worn+gold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0O_41-owHc_8fXoSaKx1aQ1kc3eRakLgsJDxvFTGklu-sSFHBm83zWSCPAl928gcrczmGEhJRGFFDWXEHq89bhwuZA6Cggs0Ir0ZkhlM3FuM-b1xwypt2iDiin5hyphenhyphenKZw7A5WIbYosY-A/s400/worn+gold.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of a gold ring that has worn thin with time and regular wear of the left; on the right, the same ring refurbished to have an evenly thicker shank. This is common maintenance for gold rings. Photo courtesy of www.vermontgemlab.com </td></tr>
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- Platinum is a very unmalleable material and is notoriously difficult to work with. This also contributes to the elevated cost of making platinum jewelry (jewelers often cringe at the idea of sizing platinum rings). For this very same reason though, it is sought after because it does not tend to thin out or loose its shape as other, more malleable metals do. Gold for instance, can indeed thin out with everyday wear over the long periods of time.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXT3_ytv5FleQ9mkFdFlRkpVbpXTLCXoXuG7ZezcAgJbowkWiiiqTdZRpsYU0mTDKAM3BOTYYpK_5la0WUpifH4koId94bIqPpZMasViimIv6rqOoH2gpeLXNBK45IswBQfeby3OyGig/s1600/patina.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXT3_ytv5FleQ9mkFdFlRkpVbpXTLCXoXuG7ZezcAgJbowkWiiiqTdZRpsYU0mTDKAM3BOTYYpK_5la0WUpifH4koId94bIqPpZMasViimIv6rqOoH2gpeLXNBK45IswBQfeby3OyGig/s320/patina.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A close up of the "patina" finish on platinum; this is the typical wear that can be seen in platinum when worn regularly because it does not keep its finish as well as gold. Photo courtesy of www.pricescope.com </td></tr>
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-That being said, platinum is a soft material and is very easily scratched, meaning that it will quickly loose that high polish finish it had when it was first purchased. Gold on the other hand, will resist scratching a lot more and will maintain its finish a lot longer.</div>
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Ultimately, I told my client that there was no magic material that could withstand the pressures of everyday life. After all, no matter on Earth can do that forever, not even diamond (despite what people say about it being ''indestructible '', but that's another story). So I asked him to consider which of these factors had been most important to him and to run with that. He has, and I'm happy to report that operation surprise engagement is well under way :-)</div>
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Stay tuned!</div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-81686213417640801292016-01-17T20:14:00.001-05:002016-01-17T20:15:55.258-05:00Are Appraisals and Lab Reports the Same Thing?<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was asked the other day which tool would be best to have when evaluating a jewelry item: a lab report or an appraisal. This question comes up quite frequently since I am a certified appraiser, so I thought it would be a good occasion to make the distinction here.While the quick answer is that both are good to have because they complement each others strengths, it is not crucial to have both. Let's break it down:</div>
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An appraisal for jewelry is a document generally produced by a gemologist with appraisal qualifications which provides a monetary value for your jewelry. Because the most common appraisal is for insurance purposes, the value produced is based on market items that are comparable to the item in question. Meaning that, should a loss occur, it would be possible for insurance companies to provide either a similar item in kind or in its monetary value. The appraiser will also take into consideration factors regarding the jewelry itself: If is was handmade or cast industrially; if it was made by a special designer; if it had been worn by a very important person or in a very important period in history. All of these things are involved when determining the final value. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXB1zaLUBpHUP1Y0NvGqa-3q29hRytWtr_r0rt7FKopcLAJyqT7_oygiQrAKGHouUtODil1l0kbxUNziRb8Wq2ooPza_MQkWYNL0_no99QSGF6ob_Owezv4pXklIFRmucNOeAYlDO5_U/s1600/garwood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXB1zaLUBpHUP1Y0NvGqa-3q29hRytWtr_r0rt7FKopcLAJyqT7_oygiQrAKGHouUtODil1l0kbxUNziRb8Wq2ooPza_MQkWYNL0_no99QSGF6ob_Owezv4pXklIFRmucNOeAYlDO5_U/s400/garwood.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sample appraisal for replacement retail value. Photo courtesy of www.garwoodjewelers.com </td></tr>
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That said, there are drawbacks. It must be understood that an appraisal given for replacement value is only an indicator of what you could claim on an insurance report. It is not necessarily the price you could fetch for the resale of your item. Too often people believe that the two are the same and feel duped when they find that their jewelry has lost value in its sale second-hand. Also, appraisers are limited to the equipment they have at their disposal, and are not allowed to take the jewelry apart for inspection. Meaning that most of the quality classifications will be approximate based on what they can see. </div>
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By comparison, a lab report is produced by institutions (GIA, AGS, Lotus) that are equipped with very specialized tools and manned by scientists who can determine empirically the makeup of unset stones. From there they can determine many things, such as the where the stones were sourced as well as the levels of certain mineral impurities which cause color. In the world of colored gemstones, origin and color are two factors which will certainly impact the value of a stone; this is why these tests are so important. Also, because these scientists are not limited by the craftsmanship of jewelry (stones must be unset), they can subject stones to a battery of tests that will give very accurate and categorized assessments in color, clarity and cut. This is crucial to the diamond industry, since the proportions, symmetry, color and clarity are the distinguishing factors between diamonds and their respective prices. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1FqQgduk240qlZlYPTk2A-Bj-bOXoAdw9MaTSs3J3syG3qXnVNHeNzEPGeOuA1PFq3-ePzG1sLPuRRQvAYYlyWnU2reJ9fTbzJ_oyZfcmZeP6x5G_Trj3VwXCoNSXwwrKOoDuLB7AMw/s1600/gia+lab+report.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1FqQgduk240qlZlYPTk2A-Bj-bOXoAdw9MaTSs3J3syG3qXnVNHeNzEPGeOuA1PFq3-ePzG1sLPuRRQvAYYlyWnU2reJ9fTbzJ_oyZfcmZeP6x5G_Trj3VwXCoNSXwwrKOoDuLB7AMw/s400/gia+lab+report.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sample GIA lab report for a diamond. Photo courtesy of www.gia.edu </td></tr>
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Lab reports have their own drawbacks. As mentioned before, these institutions cannot work on set jewelry, since the materials they are fashioned in can compromise the classification of color and clarity. Therefore, if curious about the scientific breakdown of your stone, it is important to get it examined before setting it. The biggest drawback of a lab report is that it contains no information regarding the stone's potential monetary value. They simply provide the information that will allow gem industry experts to classify it more readily. For instance, they can tell you if a ruby came out of Mozambique or Burma, but they cannot tell you what this price distinction would be (and trust me, there is a significant difference in price). </div>
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As mentioned before, there are both strengths and weaknesses in these two tools. Aside from everything that has been said, it is as always important to find reputable and honest counterparts of each. Unfortunately we find in both parties people who will over/undervalue stones and jewelry at will. While the industry is working to flush out less honest individuals, it is important to look for those who remain transparent, meticulous and dedicated to finding the true value in our luxury items. </div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-36342262596927151512015-12-31T23:32:00.000-05:002016-01-01T01:23:02.760-05:00HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!Hi everyone!<br />
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We wanted to send off 2015 with a recap of some of our favorite posts. Let's see if you agree with us! In the meantime, we at Bergamot Gems would like to wish all of our faithful followers a very happy and prosperous new year. See you all in 2016!!!</div>
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<a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/09/3-reasons-why-sapphire-is-queen-among.html">1) 3 Reasons Why Sapphires Is Queen Among Gemstones</a><br />
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<a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/07/ode-to-tsavorite.html">2) Ode to Tsavorite</a><br />
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<a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/05/bergamot-gems-at-movies.html">3) Bergamot At The Movies</a>Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-60919296942879840232015-12-21T15:07:00.000-05:002015-12-21T15:07:02.090-05:00Dare to Wear: The Neckline Issue<div style="text-align: justify;">
'Tis the season for festivities and merriment! But with all of these gatherings with family and friends comes the very pressing question of what to wear and how to perfectly accessorize for these many get-togethers. Fear not, Bergamot Gems has got you covered for every neckline! We'll show you how to maximize your jewelry!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8KLQ__LQsp2Ay8HpLXxL5G6cLCdM3yvkbS84BwND79sRdeEXTIokzagxwgtsfzwfYEdplzw-2pa_X_nAy0Zl18k9oqD4H1s-GYf-z4HobIBWxCZbmRB-5AodssT4qEaSOtXgCdLClZNg/s1600/kalugina.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8KLQ__LQsp2Ay8HpLXxL5G6cLCdM3yvkbS84BwND79sRdeEXTIokzagxwgtsfzwfYEdplzw-2pa_X_nAy0Zl18k9oqD4H1s-GYf-z4HobIBWxCZbmRB-5AodssT4qEaSOtXgCdLClZNg/s400/kalugina.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.kaluginastyle.com</td></tr>
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1) <b>Turtlenecks</b>: Because this neckline is high, pair a turtleneck with a bold statement necklace, whose color, design, or texture is very full. If you'd like to elongate the neck, a longer necklace with a bold pendant is also an option.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC5UPowOzz494tg4tbUB0aZ_FpbwZubrPA1Ufek6WINaZH4pKH-k-tjJJpKl1GH3jSxgNhlSQ8s4LNImeIszzghfHzH2-KueJ2zAiZHkdtWVv02TqnaKHQlgvyugyQ_Ug9QZD9RXG8A6I/s1600/cosmo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC5UPowOzz494tg4tbUB0aZ_FpbwZubrPA1Ufek6WINaZH4pKH-k-tjJJpKl1GH3jSxgNhlSQ8s4LNImeIszzghfHzH2-KueJ2zAiZHkdtWVv02TqnaKHQlgvyugyQ_Ug9QZD9RXG8A6I/s400/cosmo.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.cosmo.ph</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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2) <b>Boat neck</b>: The Boat neckline is by nature very wide across the collar bone. In order to counter this broad feature, an ideal pairing is the long chain or numerous long chains- look. This elongates the neck and gives a slimming appearance.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WOYnfDZTzcHmXgnOyuBjULQPbBG6pc_S_KJOj2hlEX4D2u1Cq4tbec8HStBWV0-6HstLIWlyUpdF_iK6kKACy1XJkLOI_JiiDnfGI8Iy5jAak7Y8EU036x-amXwsF4nWEX6FL0KmUDQ/s1600/v-neck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WOYnfDZTzcHmXgnOyuBjULQPbBG6pc_S_KJOj2hlEX4D2u1Cq4tbec8HStBWV0-6HstLIWlyUpdF_iK6kKACy1XJkLOI_JiiDnfGI8Iy5jAak7Y8EU036x-amXwsF4nWEX6FL0KmUDQ/s400/v-neck.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.buzzle.com </td></tr>
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3) <b>V-necks</b> as well as <b>sweetheart necklines </b>can sometimes feel like they draw too much attention to what would otherwise be empty space in the chest. A good balance for this is to find a necklace that mimics the shape of the neckline, preferably something bold and symmetrical.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoxGgk8BSFJpPHy9oUG4O9G9rbJsyJK1vuksA9Sm8WNgafJ3R6q3rNd47eDX1nxjNQLDekG_Esp9qtwypPciqpq_XATLvgYwkackAq5LYwFjdfEULqgpRqFRB24CaFRolpfZroLmI9oE/s1600/Scoop-Neck.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoxGgk8BSFJpPHy9oUG4O9G9rbJsyJK1vuksA9Sm8WNgafJ3R6q3rNd47eDX1nxjNQLDekG_Esp9qtwypPciqpq_XATLvgYwkackAq5LYwFjdfEULqgpRqFRB24CaFRolpfZroLmI9oE/s400/Scoop-Neck.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.cascadecampoliving.com</td></tr>
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4) <b>Scoop</b>: In keeping with this same logic, the scoop is best accessorized by jewelry that follows the natural curve of the fabric; giving it almost a built-in appearance.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBZaDWOXgUbRy7btjOO_9K6SypPX8TFRbwa69szKZU1Y_9-pJyc1IFGB988y3fBgfZuSNqjalrqB-lTkgq898DuoHQdWLd3R5KDeP1W2zKw8WCrUk48w5aN3L2mnjl4-RwntSr5STS3sE/s1600/nubry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBZaDWOXgUbRy7btjOO_9K6SypPX8TFRbwa69szKZU1Y_9-pJyc1IFGB988y3fBgfZuSNqjalrqB-lTkgq898DuoHQdWLd3R5KDeP1W2zKw8WCrUk48w5aN3L2mnjl4-RwntSr5STS3sE/s400/nubry.jpg" width="361" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.nubry.com </td></tr>
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5) <b>Strapless</b>: The Strapless outfit gives a lot of room to work with, however it's best to run with a choker for this neckline; this draws attention up towards the face and allows for other pieces, such as dangle earrings, to accent the face.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zk9sQuBXxaEAO0FYsQtRIg8_hhkNXypHWxLSkcgiUii5VjoKjAsdpqIXxvFgQmzZh5idt83sTLbrVs3WNoOm9yj26J6VOoDqfyRlkksaH7mjpcNs1DFh8EENLdGL54oWaQWm2t1g1LM/s1600/mia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zk9sQuBXxaEAO0FYsQtRIg8_hhkNXypHWxLSkcgiUii5VjoKjAsdpqIXxvFgQmzZh5idt83sTLbrVs3WNoOm9yj26J6VOoDqfyRlkksaH7mjpcNs1DFh8EENLdGL54oWaQWm2t1g1LM/s400/mia.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.miamiamine.com </td></tr>
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6) <b>Buttoned shirts </b>can sometimes feel restrictive when it comes to necklaces. That being said, feel free to throw that feeling out the window! Especially with buttoned up shirts, it's a perfect occasion to bust out the bright and bold "Bib" necklaces which give a little flair to an otherwise no-nonsense collar.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgml4kaSyApiN-wDuO8uDFhsvjxdbPX9l_dyrtRxWq2vryAigKsX1sp5fBLi7SOggO9B-pCc-zsT1KidvazC_MPOUAvQ9f7YQVyEGDbdS_O2qRYH_9e6KTBecrxkxJv8un8SSwRBGZfMHg/s1600/bikini.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgml4kaSyApiN-wDuO8uDFhsvjxdbPX9l_dyrtRxWq2vryAigKsX1sp5fBLi7SOggO9B-pCc-zsT1KidvazC_MPOUAvQ9f7YQVyEGDbdS_O2qRYH_9e6KTBecrxkxJv8un8SSwRBGZfMHg/s400/bikini.png" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of www.bikini.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Photo courtesy of www.shopstyle.com</td></tr>
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7) On the opposite side of the spectrum there is the <b>plunging neckline</b>, which is not an easy neckline to pair. In order to accentuate this narrow space, an equally plunging thin chain would work best. Chunky necklaces would draw attention away from this eye-catching neckline.</div>
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<br />Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-91018572455249084172015-12-06T10:56:00.001-05:002015-12-07T10:49:35.350-05:005 Standout British Jewelers You Should Know About Today!<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi everyone! Sorry we've been scarce with the entries lately. The crew and I were away to attend conferences in London, England. But while we were gone, we went exploring and saw TONS of stuff which had us rather wishing we had more time in the country. So we thought we would share some of the gem-related stuff with you! Here are 5 jewelers that stood out in our minds:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxqZAqs9WZspZzjcKK81ildSlxe7KRC7tWZw2voJUGHQ4DNX_imcznYRKHw7-FDgVMYnwbyFBMvyYdvHu8umkWqVfehSZ3Xw5vSRqInQeSHeB8Be4zTK0x7w3lOeo6i5FupLfy2BFjcY/s1600/ritz+jewelry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxqZAqs9WZspZzjcKK81ildSlxe7KRC7tWZw2voJUGHQ4DNX_imcznYRKHw7-FDgVMYnwbyFBMvyYdvHu8umkWqVfehSZ3Xw5vSRqInQeSHeB8Be4zTK0x7w3lOeo6i5FupLfy2BFjcY/s1600/ritz+jewelry.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Courtesy of www.5ivestarlondon.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4472Zq5HuDiqvIFMcFzsGCz8rbqv4zu6_67cV3kM6SXaWMBBWEQ-ECL5dKPxk-Vy1keqV-5yVTBE4IVnlRqL39H8gY25P8uZN8IrhLtSJt9r-kSh6aCyB4dbHguvf3VWiDFql1xCjcwY/s1600/ritz+jewelry+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4472Zq5HuDiqvIFMcFzsGCz8rbqv4zu6_67cV3kM6SXaWMBBWEQ-ECL5dKPxk-Vy1keqV-5yVTBE4IVnlRqL39H8gY25P8uZN8IrhLtSJt9r-kSh6aCyB4dbHguvf3VWiDFql1xCjcwY/s1600/ritz+jewelry+2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Courtesy of www.5ivestarlondon.com</td></tr>
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1) <u>Ritz Fine Jewelers</u>: On our first day we took a stroll about Piccadilly circus and took a turn in at the Ritz Fine Jewelers. Beyond the iconic arches of the Ritz Carlton London lies an off-to-the-side room which houses some exquisite jewelry. Open since 2000 and exclusive to the London location, this store is best known for its use of unusual colored stones and designs that are envisioned and made into reality right in this great city. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGg4O54rH4QlBKKXXVmAALOwVwXyKy61fiUXMVxHbukNiMYmwpjjEvSVGtc5xtJEYAumw6x24-vvhIs32X2LUq9JstSP2tf8KyC2y20sgOUsN64rdag0vTiBLRpSZ2s50V-RxY5UcxJk/s1600/emerald.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGg4O54rH4QlBKKXXVmAALOwVwXyKy61fiUXMVxHbukNiMYmwpjjEvSVGtc5xtJEYAumw6x24-vvhIs32X2LUq9JstSP2tf8KyC2y20sgOUsN64rdag0vTiBLRpSZ2s50V-RxY5UcxJk/s320/emerald.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fine Emerald Necklace. Photo Courtesy of www.boodles.com</td></tr>
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2)<u> Boodles:</u> Don't be fooled by the name, Boodles, once Boodles and Dunthorne, has a long history in England. Starting out in 1798 in Liverpool, this once family-run store took on greater dimensions when the Wainwright family took it over. With a reputation for distinguished jewelry, fine silverware and watches, this company would evolve primarily into a retailer of bespoke jewelry.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFI5UMofieyXfgJ7vZgWXQM4vo15cIoBTX1Qx0t2StwWgxG6W6UBxEZuTrM-aTyzqCIPvQOIWk6ArlG3DEZaQQh1SwBti2VBJio9Jc7phg5IAd_ygjotm2egzb_aVEDthw-W4MtBn6fA/s1600/garrard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFI5UMofieyXfgJ7vZgWXQM4vo15cIoBTX1Qx0t2StwWgxG6W6UBxEZuTrM-aTyzqCIPvQOIWk6ArlG3DEZaQQh1SwBti2VBJio9Jc7phg5IAd_ygjotm2egzb_aVEDthw-W4MtBn6fA/s640/garrard.jpg" width="451" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Various pieces from Garrards & Co. Photos courtesy of www.royalwarrant.org, www.thecourtjeweller.com & Pinterest.</td></tr>
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3) <u>Garrards:</u> Speaking of long histories, one could not list British jewelers without listing Garrards, a jeweler whose illustriousness is second to none. In a nutshell, Garrards is an institution. While today it is best known for producing the Premier League Trophy as well as Princesses Diana and Kate's sapphire engagement ring, Garrards was and still is charged with the design, care and upkeep of most of the British Crown Jewels (which by the way, <u>will</u> make your jaw drop). Established in 1735, they have seen every modern jewelry era, spanning from Georgian to the more recent Retro and Art Deco of the 20th century. Needless to say, a visit in their store is nothing short of an experience.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1BEKJIOMvTO9a0X0RrCuGjWg7aj1qWYNcnbSayyMeTk0xuWIGckVD9ScQimjNLZDH9IfK6NTJAE2xoou__jozx7GNIxB05m9VzzKZbQGzdRlz2QH5YrM42CPAaX_FpEz6q52FoPap4o/s1600/Hummingbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1BEKJIOMvTO9a0X0RrCuGjWg7aj1qWYNcnbSayyMeTk0xuWIGckVD9ScQimjNLZDH9IfK6NTJAE2xoou__jozx7GNIxB05m9VzzKZbQGzdRlz2QH5YrM42CPAaX_FpEz6q52FoPap4o/s320/Hummingbird.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bespoke Hummingbird Bracelet and Bird Ring. Photo Courtesy of www.professionaljeweller.com</td></tr>
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4) <u>Stephen Einhorn</u> is incredibly proud to be British. A self-proclaimed born and raised Londoner, his work as a creative designer has been motivated by the desire to bring back authentic British craftsmanship. Perhaps first brought into the limelight in the mid 1990s due to collaborations with fashion designer Paul Smith, he is noted for producing edgy yet sensible men's jewelry (a market that is still seldom explored today). Even further, he was among the first to produce lines of jewelry designed as commitment pieces for the LGBT community. If you are in the area of Islington, it is definitely worth the visit.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZVrkpqJzq2mBbI88OwxaXPYmnK_Px8C6yv1C8NR33nyLzJYkjmZW3XEc8s9U0gU6XbZGfRZdBMvD2t550hkv1HFlhTg2-DLo4ZtPluXci-77eCjfRX5d8O6I9MAHKIwcp9a1PAsrH-9c/s1600/dragon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZVrkpqJzq2mBbI88OwxaXPYmnK_Px8C6yv1C8NR33nyLzJYkjmZW3XEc8s9U0gU6XbZGfRZdBMvD2t550hkv1HFlhTg2-DLo4ZtPluXci-77eCjfRX5d8O6I9MAHKIwcp9a1PAsrH-9c/s320/dragon.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the <i>Couture Voyage</i> collection. Photo Courtesy of www,stephenwebster.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT7-5wTP4u1B_kYChk9vF_dgp71x-2SfTrkMv2IRgOnvr5O93GcG7hyphenhyphenCmP7qDc1VLtywyOFisFENqt9DP4oMJh36-h3RXjTJ_uCvrtAIZEPxScHOnL4p0QhNncebOlgl_oq73GA2BIcds/s1600/fly+by+night.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT7-5wTP4u1B_kYChk9vF_dgp71x-2SfTrkMv2IRgOnvr5O93GcG7hyphenhyphenCmP7qDc1VLtywyOFisFENqt9DP4oMJh36-h3RXjTJ_uCvrtAIZEPxScHOnL4p0QhNncebOlgl_oq73GA2BIcds/s320/fly+by+night.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the <i>Fly by Night</i> collection. Photo courtesy of www.nawo.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-v1_VZ7YYHuXQia4A4RzLiHvfswLJVHDklTCbfc_l-I4mt72jttQBmjroyf_cInqzwqoDXmBLLO58tJyxx5_-MwMUlT1_9KIseW5bgS_C7ZYSPSI_9-rYNXOOjXipQdtGmd3Y7zJHEc/s1600/stephen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-v1_VZ7YYHuXQia4A4RzLiHvfswLJVHDklTCbfc_l-I4mt72jttQBmjroyf_cInqzwqoDXmBLLO58tJyxx5_-MwMUlT1_9KIseW5bgS_C7ZYSPSI_9-rYNXOOjXipQdtGmd3Y7zJHEc/s400/stephen.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the <i>Magnipheasant</i> collection. Photo courtesy of www.stephenwebster.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAx_XYHRSV-AqHOR5gOq9iW0Jnlegj7tyQahPhoHzVtFVZ4Qo_OYsSzL54wy7yTtdwTZYxdL8VCHskSXnKk2rb1SXpFSMZeKtVMpaLv79BrlRIykrhAx8cEOg1DNEjFCiN2vLUvtsVlvw/s1600/technabob.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAx_XYHRSV-AqHOR5gOq9iW0Jnlegj7tyQahPhoHzVtFVZ4Qo_OYsSzL54wy7yTtdwTZYxdL8VCHskSXnKk2rb1SXpFSMZeKtVMpaLv79BrlRIykrhAx8cEOg1DNEjFCiN2vLUvtsVlvw/s400/technabob.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the <i>Seven Deadly Sins</i> collection. Photo courtesy of www.technabob.com</td></tr>
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5) <u>Stephen Webster</u> is what I would call a story-teller. While described by most as a modern-classic designer, I'd like to think that his use of vibrant and visceral colored stones illustrate his work (may I call it art?) beautifully. With collections including the <i>Seven Deadly Sins, Magnipheasant</i> and the more recent <i>Fly by Night</i>, it is clear that he wishes to convey very powerful messages through jewelry. </div>
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Anyone want to catch a plane with us? Let us know if you know of British jewelers we didn't get to visit, we'll be happy to check them out!Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-4065792184280277482015-11-16T23:16:00.000-05:002015-11-18T13:36:27.895-05:00Natural vs Synthetic Diamonds: Toe to Toe<div style="text-align: justify;">
There's a lot of buzz going on about synthetic diamonds and the potential threat they pose to the natural diamond industry; and depending on the person you speak with, you may wind up with more questions than answers regarding both. As with most things with polarized opinions, this subject is seldom presented evenly, hardly ever divulging both what is good and bad about each. So in an attempt to get real about diamonds, synthetic and natural, we've decided to address common selling points from each camp that might require some revision:<br />
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<u>1. Synthetic Diamonds Are Not "Real"</u><br />
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People are often mislead to understand that a synthetic material is the same as a simulant. This could not be further from the truth. A simulant, without having the same composition or structure, looks to imitate the appearance of another. Such is the case with colorless cubic zirconium and synthetic moissanite. A synthetic material, however, is chemically, and in terms of its cristallinity, identical to its natural counterpart. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diamond and its various simulants or imitation materials. Photo courtesy of www.gia.edu</td></tr>
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What distinguishes the two is that one was produced in a lab environment and the other in nature. This has given synthetic diamonds an undue stigma. The only problem with synthetic diamonds is when they are not disclosed as such, causing the supply to flood the market and lose its value as a rare material.</div>
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<u>2. Synthetic Diamonds Are Less Damaging To The Environment Than Natural Diamonds</u><br />
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Those who advocate synthetic diamonds are very vocal about the cost to the environment it is to mine diamonds. They say that the gas emissions released and energy consumed to supply the mining process are disastrous carbon footprints that ruin entire ecosystems. This is unfortunately the case with some less responsible prospectors. As with most things however, there are some who recognize this impact and are committed to restoring the ecosystems that have been disturbed in the process. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diavik Mine in Canada. Photo Courtesy of www.mining.com </td></tr>
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That said, it can be hardly be concluded that the production of synthetic diamonds does not come with its fair share of ''carbon foot-printing''. The methods of producing synthetic diamonds are various, but essentially the point is to simulate the temperatures and pressures that occur deep in the Earth and that are crucial in diamond crystallization. With temperatures hitting approx.1400 degrees Celsius and pressures leveling at approx 60kPa, you could imagine the energy needed to achieve this. In a <a href="http://www.uvm.edu/~shali/Synthetic_Diamonds_Mined_Diamonds.pdf">recent study</a>, it was determined that depending on the location of the mine, there were varying amounts of energy consumed, some less and some more than that used to produced lab-made diamonds.</div>
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<u>3. Natural Diamond Mining Funds Conflict and Warfare</u></div>
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Alright. So most of the free world has seen the film <i>Blood Diamond</i>. If you haven't, then its very probable that something to that effect has been brought to your attention: Diamonds, like minerals used to produce the screens on phones and computers, are in some instances <span class="_Tgc">sold to finance insurgencies and conflict. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi69HVkn3p1gcyN6giA0iBruuOLoLStFPtj9vvlg-iLxvOrBIgfjOGSTTbORgt2laGAbObZ34IMJ34XaNEk3a5zZ5lp2m2Z72IEhCHoX7tU0S-CRCGye69iozFwILa2hPvWh-Nl-Pxm-Q/s1600/blood+diamond.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi69HVkn3p1gcyN6giA0iBruuOLoLStFPtj9vvlg-iLxvOrBIgfjOGSTTbORgt2laGAbObZ34IMJ34XaNEk3a5zZ5lp2m2Z72IEhCHoX7tU0S-CRCGye69iozFwILa2hPvWh-Nl-Pxm-Q/s400/blood+diamond.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still of Djimon Hounsou in <i>Blood Diamond</i> (2006). Photo courtesy of www.fansshare.com</td></tr>
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<span class="_Tgc">This is undeniably the ugliest face of our industry. Resolutely, it has been the continued work of many to ebb the flow of these conflict-sourced materials. Accords such as the Kimberley process taking effect in 2003 work towards this by imposing strict requirements on the transport of rough diamonds. Though it is far from being enough to reverse this failure of humanity, we have found that more than ever before, people are now insisting on ethically sourced materials and that this can be attained in the natural stone world. </span></div>
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I'm afraid I do not have the same celebrity as some well-known ambassadors for either schools of thought mentioned here today, but I do hope that this has given a fuller picture of what these stones really are about. While we are continually fascinated by science's newest advancements, we at Bergamot Gems have always believed in the truly rare beauty of naturally sources and un-enhanced materials. It is our consummate work to ensure transparency and social responsibility for our materials; with hopes that the world will follow suit and for science to outdo itself once more.<br />
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What do you prefer, natural or synthetic? We'd like to know! Be sure to drop us a line! </div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-48920326810744177372015-10-31T11:32:00.000-04:002015-10-31T11:32:16.925-04:00Tales from the Bergamot: The Delhi Purple Sapphire <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimF-PrtX_9YfJ4kRRiCc-Yxd3-7BaguEzy7k246PEYImp0yTasTUi9DcJNMFUNsk3CagpRRwIGaUY8lnFGXOgB2f-DBYzm9WL0o1GEXEqXYXyYGFxtYPjcAIfAVax3VYAAypSS98IVsPw/s1600/whoever.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="66" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimF-PrtX_9YfJ4kRRiCc-Yxd3-7BaguEzy7k246PEYImp0yTasTUi9DcJNMFUNsk3CagpRRwIGaUY8lnFGXOgB2f-DBYzm9WL0o1GEXEqXYXyYGFxtYPjcAIfAVax3VYAAypSS98IVsPw/s400/whoever.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sounds melodramatic, doesn't it? Mr. Herron Allen would perhaps have agreed with you, had his experiences with this particular jewel not haunted him for the rest of his life. A man of science and learning, his life was devoted to many studies, spanning everything from botany and law, to the translation of ancient Persian and Sanskrit texts. Maybe it's in these parts of the world that he came across this entrancingly beautiful violet stone, reminiscent of royal robes from an ancient time. I'd imagine he was not aware of the damage it had done to its previous owners; but then again, he did not believe in such superstitious things either: </div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Colonel Ferris, a soldier fighting during the Great Mutiny in India, brought home the jewel with him to the UK and soon befell an illness from which he would never recover. His son would inherit the stone along his father's serious problems in wealth and health. Having left no heir, it would appear that this cursed jewel passed from place to place until falling into the hands of ill-fated Mr. Herron Allen. </i></span></div>
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When he first acquired this stone, he felt a great weight with it, but didn't take much notice of it. It was highly admired by all of his friends and acquaintances. But soon afterwards, he too would begin to feel the effects of this stone. Large and inexplicable welts would appear on his body. And he would be overcome by the worst fits of memory loss, further straining his work as a scholar. He thought he might relinquish this burden by giving it to one of these admiring acquaintances. One particular owner, a singer, blamed the jewel for having ruined her career as she could no longer sing. In fact, she would never sing again. One by one these people would return it to Herron Allen, insisting that they could not keep it.</div>
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Eager to be undone of his cursed stone, he threw it into the canal, believing that the current would sweep away his curse along with the tide. But curiously, he did not feel relief when the last purple glints disappeared in the distance. That familiar weight still burdened him. Months later he would understand why, when the stone would be mysteriously brought back to his doorstep; there to finish him off.</div>
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Resolving to ensure that this nefarious jewel could not harm anyone else, family or other, Mr. Herron Allen bore the burden of it silently for 14 years until his death and insisted that no other person would touch it. He stored it away in a series of boxes, seven altogether, each containing good luck charms meant to counteract its power. With it came strict instructions for the bank that under no circumstance should a worker come in contact with it. Even more adamant, was the instruction that no family member should handle it directly, even after his death and during the dealings of his succession. It was bequeathed to the Natural History Museum of London, along with the foreboding message above. </div>
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We, despite being people of science, still believe that the curse lives on. Why is that? Not long ago, the museum reorganized their stores of gems and minerals and thought to showcase some of their long forgotten specimens. A particular curator has been the only one to handle it; even these brief encounters have been enough to secure his fair share of bad luck. If a long standing illness and passing an especially large kidney stone were not enough, Mr. Whittaker recalls a moment when he truly felt the power of this curse. While transporting it to a conference, he and his wife were suddenly overcome by a most ominous and terrifying thunderstorm. Unlike any storm they had ever witnessed, they feared for their lives in that moment, even to the point of abandoning the car, with the stone in it. Had it resurfaced for one last victim?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheTYnbq7h7lnrJ6n9-CDUZKe_HsHInZOuwxLDu2iWshTY89PWFVQcuoYcDssZp5WKxdDAchMD-rhRoHFbWalztWP7oKGvmLmig3UTjBIuRxI8HAjS1iq2CHTYtU1q6-vnw_UyaBn3DCTo/s1600/4-delhi-purple-sapphire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheTYnbq7h7lnrJ6n9-CDUZKe_HsHInZOuwxLDu2iWshTY89PWFVQcuoYcDssZp5WKxdDAchMD-rhRoHFbWalztWP7oKGvmLmig3UTjBIuRxI8HAjS1iq2CHTYtU1q6-vnw_UyaBn3DCTo/s400/4-delhi-purple-sapphire.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Delhi Purple Sapphire. Go ahead, touch it....if you dare! Photo courtesy of www.lifescience.com </td></tr>
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-52507292892230761662015-10-20T09:27:00.001-04:002015-10-20T09:27:39.622-04:00Tales from the Bergamot: The Black Prince Ruby<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5V9rd9fy43LTu02U8l-pUu2kPG7ZqTJsAFgtzd8hqKG1t0j1IcUR1aTOwZtbsWBDnXdlNYrGFaJnW56xLw3vyO4Nl1_QWUuYcj_Ng08UrqbHaJkKVKkhEwHwXyawdChv8q4TNlOIdBUU/s1600/BLACK+PRINCE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="65" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5V9rd9fy43LTu02U8l-pUu2kPG7ZqTJsAFgtzd8hqKG1t0j1IcUR1aTOwZtbsWBDnXdlNYrGFaJnW56xLw3vyO4Nl1_QWUuYcj_Ng08UrqbHaJkKVKkhEwHwXyawdChv8q4TNlOIdBUU/s400/BLACK+PRINCE.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Things are not always as they seem. I should know; people have been mistaking me for a ruby for centuries. While I used to take offense to this blunder, now I relish in the remembrance of countless fools who have gone to their deaths in an attempt to have me as their own. Little did they know that I am in fact a spinel! These supposedly important and powerful people succumbing to their most basic and greedy instincts, stained me red forevermore with their blood.<br />
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Should I tell you about some of my conquests? How about Muhammed VI? Born into a long and illustrious line of Sultans, he lived in a time and place of change. While his kingdom in Muslim Spain was long lived until the mid 1300s, he was reduced to a pawn in a battle between two feuding Spanish houses. He thought that by allying with the house of Aragon that he might be able to retain a piece of his family's once immense kingdom. He couldn't have been more wrong.<br />
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Pedro of Castille had very different plans in mind. He proposed a peace talk near Seville one warm evening, supposedly in order convince the Sultan to bridge the divide between the houses. It is while discussing this that I first caught Pedro's eye. Hanging like a talisman around Muhammed's neck was a deep red mass glowing brightly in what remained of the day's light. All at once, Pedro was consumed by a desire to take the glow away from the Sultan throat and claim me for his own. He quickly took out his beautifully carved ivory-hilt dagger and stabbed him through the heart. While he cleaned the blood from his blade and tucked me safely in his pocket, he congratulated himself not only in removing his enemy's ally, but also in his most fortunate acquisition.</div>
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What about this Pedro? Some called him cruel. Some people even said he killed his wife. He wouldn't be the first royal to be accused of this, nor the last. I simply saw him as weak and opportunistic; going about like a peacock since that day near Seville, reveling in his triumph. But that cowardly little man soon got nervous again when he learned that his brother Henry was looking to overthrow him, aided by the house of Aragon. Desperate to quell this rising power, Pedro called upon a force so dark that even he would not wish it as his enemy. He called upon the Black Prince.<br />
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Now that was a character; he was my favorite, since I identified with him most of all. The Black Prince was like a force of nature. One that cannot be commanded or tempered. Stories of his savagery and prowess in war were as terrifying as the black stare he would give any living soul. Pedro could not manage to buy his allegiance with the promise of land, power or money as he could with other men. The Black Prince would only be swayed to join him if he also gave up the one thing he treasured almost as dearly as his worthless life: me. Pedro reluctantly agreed.<br />
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So they waged war fiercely against Henry, but when it became obvious that Pedro had no intention to honor his promises, the Black Prince left him at the mercy of his relentless brother. Henry would deal Pedro the final blow by spearing through his pathetic body but it was the Black Prince who took what was left of his soul. He cut me away from Pedro's throat at the edge of a blade, gathered his armies and left Spain forever.<br />
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"Pity" the Black Prince didn't live very long after that. Turns out that he would die of illness, rather than by the sword. From his hands, I was passed down from one king to the next; each one as unremarkable as the one before. And now...well...things have been quiet lately. Reduced to a mere trinket, I compete with other stones in this silly hat for awe and admiration. I like to console myself by thinking that people today are not much different to the ones from before. And someday soon, people will again bleed for me.</div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-76749070353547210742015-10-12T00:16:00.002-04:002015-10-15T22:33:01.032-04:00Tales from the Bergamot: The Curse of The Black OrlovIn honor of Halloween, we've decided to tell spooky tales about dark and mysterious gems. So keep reading...if you dare!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJ1-Umjvyl0v_bLI8-Mr6xyvsl-OIzm-UZqCsEkBPsdXtqEkL2A_TQ2W7CWjLROsWZl539lC76t_1hq10NbHFTRsLjMff5aTDan1ua-vNfQlp9r6HBX0FEIP0s8sGvksFlDJbmnkV3Uo/s1600/title.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="41" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJ1-Umjvyl0v_bLI8-Mr6xyvsl-OIzm-UZqCsEkBPsdXtqEkL2A_TQ2W7CWjLROsWZl539lC76t_1hq10NbHFTRsLjMff5aTDan1ua-vNfQlp9r6HBX0FEIP0s8sGvksFlDJbmnkV3Uo/s400/title.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A haggard and visibly anxious man, walks warily into the night wearing nothing but the remnants of his torn and burnt evening garment. He removes the tattered clerical collar hanging off to the side of his shirt and stuffs it carelessly into what remains of his pocket. His eyes grow increasingly frightened as he looks down at a mass of rupees, his last and only possession, as he realizes the distance between himself and the port of Pondicherry. </div>
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''I should never have come to this place'', he says. ''Up until now, things have be going well here in British India despite the locals' continued reluctance to convert. While visiting the shrines of their strange gods, I heard a whisper that drew me to a most peculiar sculpture: Four heads looking down serenely at the people below with jeweled eyes that shined so brightly that I was mesmerized by its hypnotic gaze. This whisper continued to follow me, imploring me to take one of the diamond eyes of the sculpture. It said that it longed to be held in my hands. I confess I could not resist it. But ever since that day nothing but horrible misgivings have occurred. The monastery was burnt down in which all of my fellow brothers have perished; since then, I have been walking these streets at the mercy of beggars and vagrants, desperately trying to get home. The only good that has come from that diamond as black as this night, is the fare I have received in exchange for it to return to France. I hope that this ill fortune will not follow me across the waters...".</div>
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But much to the priest's anguish, his fortunes did not turn. Shortly after his return home and still plagued by continued tragedy, he sought release from this torture by climbing to the top of the town's bell tower, and plunging to his death.</div>
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"Serves you well, for taking that which does not belong to you, foolish impertinent creature'', says the god Brahma, who's eye the priest had so unceremoniously taken out. ''Your greed is all the more repulsive as you are meant to be a man of the cloth; one that sheds these worldly desires. I will punish your greed and that of your successors by cursing all those who claim it as their own to the same fate.</div>
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New York City, 1932. Mr. J.W. Paris, a well-known diamond dealer is expected at a meeting with fellow dealers to view the latest yield from the mines. Only, Mr. Paris has been quite unwell lately. He too had in his possession a large black diamond, as dark as that Indian night so long ago. But soon after selling it, his business had taken a turn for the worst. With increasing pressures mounting and the fear of the depression's horrible reach taking hold of him, he took himself to the top floor of that 5th Avenue skyscraper and dove towards the busy streets below.</div>
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Rome, December 1947. Princess Nadia Vygin-Orlov was one of the few fortunate members of the royal family to escape the violence of the Russian Revolution. Rome had since become her home and she founded a life there with her husband, a well-known jeweler. But on this particular night, she walked frantically through the weaving streets she thought she knew so well. Ever since she received "that" black diamond as a gift, a whisper would not leave her side. She thought that taking to the streets would quell this taunting voice. Much to her dismay, it did not. In an attempt to get away, she quickly turned the nearest corner and was stopped dead in her tracks; the usually angelic face of a familiar statue, had become distorted and terrifying. Growing evermore paranoid, she dashed away only to be met by more twisted, tortured faces on every column, steeple and street corner. Having lost her grasp on reality, she ran into the nearby theater, up the staircase towards the roof. And as Richard III yelled "If not to heaven, then hand in hand to hell!" she extinguished the whisper by jumping to her death.
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-81979317415509471862015-09-28T22:50:00.002-04:002015-09-28T22:50:43.521-04:003 Reasons Why Sapphire is Queen Among Gemstones<div style="text-align: justify;">
As the last entry may have suggested, this author humbly admits to having a bias towards sapphire; one that is as flowery as it is scientific. However, it occurs to us that while focusing on the true beauty of blue sapphire, we have neglected to bring up crucial points, which in our opinion make sapphire arguably unbeatable among the rest of the world's gemstones. Here are three factors which plead this case: </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwk6WQQ-E__RuPBkgZrPeL9G6b4mLPMkwCs7uTMTAAI0PgB92l7JW5-qpJAxzk5cG_KUWGN56wyw2umS5ShJX7siTSUkLb0guQaGOeiB0U1LaWHdgPbEyn37AJ0bAhOEgsafBAWQPocgo/s1600/Untitled-1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwk6WQQ-E__RuPBkgZrPeL9G6b4mLPMkwCs7uTMTAAI0PgB92l7JW5-qpJAxzk5cG_KUWGN56wyw2umS5ShJX7siTSUkLb0guQaGOeiB0U1LaWHdgPbEyn37AJ0bAhOEgsafBAWQPocgo/s640/Untitled-1.gif" width="451" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A collage of colored sapphire. Photos courtesy of Bergamot Gems, F. Barlocher, www.tradeindia.com, www.gemselect.com & www.sndgems.com</td></tr>
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1) VARIETY!!<br />
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While sapphire is best known and coveted for its blue variety, it is in fact a type of corundum that comes in a plethora of colors, each with their distinct beauty: tangy oranges, cool greens, bright yellows; every hue exists but red, which is reserved only for ruby. Simply put, regardless of personal preference for color, sapphire has got you covered. Just in case you thought that fancy-colored sapphires were common-place, consider Padparadsha: an orangey-pink variety of sapphire which is commonly described as a cross between a lotus flower and a sunset. Few people can properly distinguish a true Padparadsha and even fewer are found, making it arguably as rare as the blue variety.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja7sSJF_E-ZuZsT7xnSvmpvwRcHBnFIAlx9M_VIdIW-CeDYmXxTeosbry6iNPZlKFsb3ArSwRDxoFmr7EjKD3Qw-Z1WDd__J1MRxw0WZtSw9TV1mQlQT_MLgQjPiEq78Jrb3fEJfNO8J4/s1600/Padparadsha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja7sSJF_E-ZuZsT7xnSvmpvwRcHBnFIAlx9M_VIdIW-CeDYmXxTeosbry6iNPZlKFsb3ArSwRDxoFmr7EjKD3Qw-Z1WDd__J1MRxw0WZtSw9TV1mQlQT_MLgQjPiEq78Jrb3fEJfNO8J4/s400/Padparadsha.jpg" width="370" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fantastic example of ''Padparadsha'' sapphire. Photo courtesy of www.lotusgemology.com</td></tr>
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2) Durability<br />
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Bergamot Gems is often called on to provide guidance when buying stones meant for everyday wear (engagement rings for instance). We love recommending sapphire for this, since it's a highly durable material. What do we mean by this? For starters, it's incredibly hard, used for example as the crystal on watches and even industrially for the windows of aircrafts. Even further, this material has no cleavage; something that even diamond cannot boast. As mentioned in an earlier <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/02/the-gaga-diamond.html">article</a>, a diamond can easily break into two pieces if pressured on a cleavage plane, whereas sapphire does not. Therefore, it is much more likely to withstand the wear and tear of everyday life than most gemstones. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPB5VMFL1q-9u-0V7TtDRlW2DQ00Nr3WsPQ0QwSQkoeWfplGwwR37Y2ulrh7Og_f0gvTDnWRJB995-TRMHQ3DGJOay34K6wVaLXOoEXyjbfPISvPFRLGQ7CGRM3npUYujIPIMoZJ4nVE/s1600/color.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPB5VMFL1q-9u-0V7TtDRlW2DQ00Nr3WsPQ0QwSQkoeWfplGwwR37Y2ulrh7Og_f0gvTDnWRJB995-TRMHQ3DGJOay34K6wVaLXOoEXyjbfPISvPFRLGQ7CGRM3npUYujIPIMoZJ4nVE/s400/color.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of a color-change sapphire left (incandescent light) and right (daylight). Photo courtesy of www.professionaljeweler.com</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUV8uYqSwBwoMGZepnEXrSRulOgInDn5GynthTqcB6iuzlcFrFy4IOSN_ciu2CTd8H4AU2ffD2RX-GoX6uW0cfwHGRrasiaiuO6GeCWRXoCqXJpQ4wvP24PjtTmdQ3wgWb4guV0ZP1TP0/s1600/150px-Asterism.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUV8uYqSwBwoMGZepnEXrSRulOgInDn5GynthTqcB6iuzlcFrFy4IOSN_ciu2CTd8H4AU2ffD2RX-GoX6uW0cfwHGRrasiaiuO6GeCWRXoCqXJpQ4wvP24PjtTmdQ3wgWb4guV0ZP1TP0/s320/150px-Asterism.png" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A diagram illustrating the reflection effect of rutile in sapphire. Photo courtesy of www.gemologyproject.com</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIC7ioFJvGN7B-JUWNXggboXSJQUbQ4fPiO1q1mBXOvCrYmP9uhJvVuSLmd7Cebb4fnhMynYaBkxcN5CTDw5qs6rPCpPAe5A_IbZdL_7t6TtHGL6PnMu04br5YjDizD6L3COu54fxYow/s1600/gemselect.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIC7ioFJvGN7B-JUWNXggboXSJQUbQ4fPiO1q1mBXOvCrYmP9uhJvVuSLmd7Cebb4fnhMynYaBkxcN5CTDw5qs6rPCpPAe5A_IbZdL_7t6TtHGL6PnMu04br5YjDizD6L3COu54fxYow/s1600/gemselect.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A large blue star-sapphire. Photo courtesy of www.gemselect.com</td></tr>
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3) Optical Phenomenon</div>
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Up until now, we've described tangible factors that make sapphire a very practical choice for a gemstone. But aside from that very responsible stuff, sapphire is also pretty cool because of the different optical phenomenons that it can display. For instance, sapphire has the capacity to display the color-change effect. As with <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/06/the-answer-to-previous-post-is-in.html">alexandrite</a>, sapphire can in certain cases display more than one color depending on the kind of light that is used to illuminate it. Though more subtle than with alexandrite, it is enough to distinguish it. Also, sapphire can also display asterisms, which are the result of reflections of the rutile needle inclusions inside the stone. As seen in the diagram above, the needles are long, numerous and fine; when intersecting with one another, their reflection appears to us as a star. Neat huh?<br />
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These are just a few simple reasons why we enjoy sapphire so much. Hold one in your hand and you'll see for yourself :-)<br />
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-31645829008258742292015-09-21T16:27:00.000-04:002015-09-25T08:01:13.277-04:00Romancing the Stone [Slideshare]<div style="text-align: justify;">
In keeping with the spirit of our last entry, we thought it would be fitting to speak about one of our authors' favorite stones. It also happens to be this month's birthstone. Yep, we're talking SAPPHIRE! But since sapphire could not possibly be encompassed in a single entry, we have decided to write things that will allow us to let the stone romance you, as it has for us. Stay tuned for more articles as we trail through the sapphire world.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="470px" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" mozallowfullscreen="" scrolling="no" src="//www.slideshare.net/bergamotgems/slideshelf" style="border: none;" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="490px"></iframe></div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-87149956478183024422015-09-06T23:17:00.000-04:002015-09-08T14:03:53.575-04:00Putting the Term ''Semi-Precious" to Bed. Once and For All!<div style="text-align: justify;">
Have you ever heard someone say that some colored gemstones are just ''semi-precious''? Because of our company's contact with various levels of the industry (retail and clients alike), I hear it all the time; but before I crawl out of my skin in annoyance when I hear this, I remind myself that it is hardly people's fault for thinking this way about stones outside of "the big 4". For instance, the marketing of diamonds (with slogans such as "diamonds are forever") has been so thorough that people are enticed to buy time and time again.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4RA5JpCB9nTeuqFLo3BmSLUfOc95MExwclhDppogSC_cjV-_aJ26lpPlMTBlhRcEKXVtE6d8TWPSQs4XuNsgCXt0TbVdkDh5orfC6fkVYPf1BImKdJABv56Toz2WJF_cZuRZv3aDB_s/s1600/4CsChartPoster.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4RA5JpCB9nTeuqFLo3BmSLUfOc95MExwclhDppogSC_cjV-_aJ26lpPlMTBlhRcEKXVtE6d8TWPSQs4XuNsgCXt0TbVdkDh5orfC6fkVYPf1BImKdJABv56Toz2WJF_cZuRZv3aDB_s/s640/4CsChartPoster.png" width="451" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The four 'Cs's of diamond. Photo courtesy of <a href="https://www.blogger.com/null"></a><a href="http://www.diamondclub.us/">www.diamondclub.us</a> </td></tr>
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Furthermore, diamonds are categorized in an almost clinical fashion based on their weight, color, clarity and cut; which leaves very little room for interpretation. By comparison, colored stones have taken on a very mysterious quality (even with jewelers), which is why they are greatly misunderstood by many people today.<br />
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Our particular grievance with the term "semi-precious'' is quite simple; By virtue of its name, it has a connotation similar to the ''second-class
citizen": one that is common, less valuable, less desired. In reality,
nothing could be further from the truth. It is for this reason that we've decided to debunk the myth of this commonly-used misnomer. So what do people mean when they are referring to "semi-precious" stones?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZ0ZqDiBq_hELfpPoKqjmPul492t_atB7OIhw42o318YmsLWQvu4JbAlbU2m42fvHxjChps8-x2fPat2SdWCEVicGmHC0yE39st0atIghgL9qcMYI3d1nf6I5UmkII5FRoiF10Xp6XMs/s1600/pasquale+bruni.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZ0ZqDiBq_hELfpPoKqjmPul492t_atB7OIhw42o318YmsLWQvu4JbAlbU2m42fvHxjChps8-x2fPat2SdWCEVicGmHC0yE39st0atIghgL9qcMYI3d1nf6I5UmkII5FRoiF10Xp6XMs/s400/pasquale+bruni.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fantastic example of amethyst at its best. Ghirlanda Violet designed by Pasquale Bruni. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.preziosamagazine.com/">www.preziosamagazine.com</a></td></tr>
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Many people say that these so-called "semi-precious" stones are less expensive and therefore less desirable. While it is true that some stones fetch a lesser price than other stones (based on factors such as rarity, durability etc), it must be remembered that all gemstones come in a variety of prices, all based on their spectrum of quality. As we saw in a <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/05/are-you-seeing-red-when-thinking-about.html">previous article regarding the treatment of rubies</a>, some extremely poor quality ruby have come to market and fetched prices far beyond their actual worth, simply because they are (hardly) ruby. While some stones can be worth as much a 500,000$ a carat, others can fetch as little as 0.99$ a carat. Similarly, there can be very commercial quality amethysts, just as there are also very fine quality amethysts on the market. We'll discuss more thoroughly the factors to pay attention to in a later entry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGhA2FDE8BKb9KJkLJDqi0oiEQ43WhbfZjUCl85GJ1LATxuSraee5KDX2eV9e5lO6IHDyDL_Q8RTUdBlua6LC991feuWra_CNxhafinwHPGm7X9MzO7LIv9P9-ueiwGTAX79v_Wff5Xg/s1600/Paraibas-e1381526816818+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGhA2FDE8BKb9KJkLJDqi0oiEQ43WhbfZjUCl85GJ1LATxuSraee5KDX2eV9e5lO6IHDyDL_Q8RTUdBlua6LC991feuWra_CNxhafinwHPGm7X9MzO7LIv9P9-ueiwGTAX79v_Wff5Xg/s400/Paraibas-e1381526816818+%25282%2529.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinnacle-quality Paraiba tourmaline designed by Martin Katz. Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.martinkatz.com/">www.martinkatz.com</a></td></tr>
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Even if we wanted to entertain the notion of expensive being necessarily synonymous to precious, allow me to shed light on a few things: chrysoberyl, a name that might otherwise be forgotten because it is not one of the big 4, is actually quite expensive when considering the finest quality <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/06/the-answer-to-previous-post-is-in.html">alexandrite</a> (a variety of chrysoberyl). Similarly, tourmaline might be considered commonplace by some until one feels the electricity of Paraiba with its fabulous color and equally fabulous price tag.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheO5PxwVM5gf87EanqpoN9QLyzN65fA_1jf1DhAT6p1SJC0UEAFYiMAKTn0Cs4y1cucStUQKNLhDAy6JMBF3M8ZlgQ-LMMrP_KVriwGorh2ByGcz3CeCL2hcSNtlrHBoEEwBYssNDl08k/s1600/gemstones.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheO5PxwVM5gf87EanqpoN9QLyzN65fA_1jf1DhAT6p1SJC0UEAFYiMAKTn0Cs4y1cucStUQKNLhDAy6JMBF3M8ZlgQ-LMMrP_KVriwGorh2ByGcz3CeCL2hcSNtlrHBoEEwBYssNDl08k/s640/gemstones.gif" width="451" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clockwise: 1) <b>Cat's eye Chrysoberyl</b>, photo courtesy of www.langantiques.com; 2)<b> Rubellite</b> pendant, photo courtesy of www.it.aliexpress.com; 3) <b>Imperial Topaz</b> designed by Katerina Perez, photo courtesy of www.katerinaperez.com; 4) <b>Iolite and Diamond </b>gimlet ring, photo courtesy of www.gemvara.com </td></tr>
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There are some people who would have others believe that certain colored stones are less important or less desirable. We at Bergamot Gems respectfully disagree due to a simple school of thought that we prescribe to wholeheartedly. It is one that appreciates stones simply for what they are. As many colored gemstones enthusiasts and experts will say, colored stones
have a very visceral quality that are not easily quantified, but should
simply be appreciated and admired because they <u>are</u>. Now, more than ever, we are seeing people embracing gemstones outside of the conventional options offered to them, particularly in the bridal faction of the industry. This resonates rather significantly for us; because frankly, if a "semi-precious" gemstone is what speaks to you or is significant to you in that special life milestone, then it is in our opinion the most precious gemstone of all.<br />
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It's a big world out there; even the gem world has vast and stretching horizons. We invite you to discover it!<br />
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-32296352897730606372015-08-22T14:32:00.000-04:002015-08-24T16:41:47.814-04:00The Name's John. Blue John<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Picture for a moment your country's most prized natural resource (besides James Bond of course ;). For us in Canada it's not too difficult, as we are blessed with many. Now imagine if that natural resource were to suddenly dry up, or at the very least, that the supply would be so scarce that only a half-ton is extracted annually. Furthermore, it would not be until 150 years later that a new deposit would be discovered. That's quite the dry spell! Perhaps only then can we begin to understand the surprise of English miners when, just a few days ago, they discovered <a href="http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-derbyshire-33984792">new veins of Blue John in Derbyshire</a>. While "Blue John" is certainly not England's most prized nor its most important resource, its popularity during the Regency-era and general scarcity certainly account for the high prices it covets at auction today. So what is Blue John and what's so special about it?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5dJgUbZ7jxhk3rVejAvyd4jxgo22Or4sf4hjP14IE-ox502uK8Ld1Yyp0RioOVsolBidWQwwB0U9LP4EMQ-PKxk9xQZnYRHVzXIi-nXH9FF3Bl76pf0obqkIQfhWFfdcIafwllAvVgnw/s1600/mineral.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5dJgUbZ7jxhk3rVejAvyd4jxgo22Or4sf4hjP14IE-ox502uK8Ld1Yyp0RioOVsolBidWQwwB0U9LP4EMQ-PKxk9xQZnYRHVzXIi-nXH9FF3Bl76pf0obqkIQfhWFfdcIafwllAvVgnw/s400/mineral.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedge of "Blue John", displaying beautiful banding. Photo courtesy of www.mineral-forum.com</td></tr>
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A banded variety of fluorite (calcium fluoride), Blue John is supposedly named as such because French prospectors from the reign of Louis XVI imported the material and described it by its colors: blue and yellow (bleu, jaune). This story is not yet substantiated by records in France, but it does aptly illustrate the kind of distinct color zoning and banding that is seen in this stone, ranging anywhere from purplish blue, to yellowish cream. This particular variety of fluorite has only been found in Derbyshire, central England. Other fluorite can also be found mainly in China and the U.S.A.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdW6azzxxjNy50koC5K1tYLsGZvYonmMUeQS1wpc7T-nuHwFrH6XR9BEagwbh6Mjl1FfRJe9DCaUzs5PJ8yOm-HOw-4cnjv7OEg2-Tz-2ctetWcorjm2Nnf-d43f9w9IIcnVX2A-TWozM/s1600/mtgms.org+rough.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdW6azzxxjNy50koC5K1tYLsGZvYonmMUeQS1wpc7T-nuHwFrH6XR9BEagwbh6Mjl1FfRJe9DCaUzs5PJ8yOm-HOw-4cnjv7OEg2-Tz-2ctetWcorjm2Nnf-d43f9w9IIcnVX2A-TWozM/s400/mtgms.org+rough.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fluorite rough specimen. Photo courtesy of www.mtgms.org</td></tr>
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While other well-known gemstones rank high on the Moh's scale, fluorite sits relatively low at 4. To give a point of reference, this is softer than man-made glass, but still harder than a human nail; coupled with perfect and very easy cleavage, fluorite is very ill-suited for faceting. This is why we generally see it fashioned into tumbled stones, cabochons; and in the case of Blue John, a significant amount of ornamental pieces were made, including vases, chess boards squares etc... It is especially the work of Matthew Boulton that would bring rise to the vases who would even grace the halls of royal homes in England.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStJC6WxDA6HyKvlD5Eim2JGkEj186ka9YZIZZmfnsXSNArgF5_uJ7fJP93qA6PEWWtMV3yezCRP3OnRy219vUKcmfAJGPnqjJL_I3ZdIqRb7snJzWBsPiOLCO1W90XNgKkhVLt7bIs3U/s1600/coulborn+regency+vase.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStJC6WxDA6HyKvlD5Eim2JGkEj186ka9YZIZZmfnsXSNArgF5_uJ7fJP93qA6PEWWtMV3yezCRP3OnRy219vUKcmfAJGPnqjJL_I3ZdIqRb7snJzWBsPiOLCO1W90XNgKkhVLt7bIs3U/s400/coulborn+regency+vase.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Regency-era "Blue John" vases, circa 1810-1820. Photo courtesy of www.coulborn.com</td></tr>
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Apart from its basic properties, fluorite is most interesting because of its ability to fluoresce when exposed to UV lighting. For those who have been to laser tag (the notoriously dark rooms that are lit with certain lights making certain items fluoresce) are actually similar to the effect seen in fluorite. This light excites the electrons within the material to a point where it must release energy in order to stabilize itself. It does so by emitting a luminescent "glow". While they are not the only gemstones that have this ability, fluorite generally has a very pronounced reaction to it. Some attribute this to the REE (Rare Earth Elements) within the material.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bmuEAAB-ViSlcejRruY4qBq7WqPsPsV2Zz-RF7jf4Wv1pQ-iK1KP8Fwrsud044JIC8NolZpil7v4tzHIgcL7k1fQEdCdN73m8RykeRuS7f5pW924P8dS2YgwzJjMY98jU__OVm3_MPI/s1600/fluorescent-fluorite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bmuEAAB-ViSlcejRruY4qBq7WqPsPsV2Zz-RF7jf4Wv1pQ-iK1KP8Fwrsud044JIC8NolZpil7v4tzHIgcL7k1fQEdCdN73m8RykeRuS7f5pW924P8dS2YgwzJjMY98jU__OVm3_MPI/s400/fluorescent-fluorite.jpg" width="361" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tumbled fluorite before and during exposure to UV light. Excellent example of fluorescence. Photo courtesy of www.geology.com</td></tr>
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I don't know about you, but when hearing about new discoveries like this, I have the urge to go out and explore. You never know what you'll find! </div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-90794792378624935212015-08-08T10:19:00.001-04:002015-08-08T10:26:30.255-04:00A Midsummer Night's Gleam<div style="text-align: justify;">
Though "gleam" is hardly a proper term used in gemology, it conveys the idea of optical phenomenons which is at the core of today's entry. In gemology, we are often called upon to document and correctly assess the optical phenomenons which some gems display and to explain why they occur. While many of them are pretty cool when you look at the actual science of it, none are quite as spectacular, nor as seemingly random as the play-of-color in opal. Even pictures fail to adequately illustrate how special play-of-color can really be, so we hope that these samples will give a sense for it. Let's dive into it shall we?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJB-tDYOZY3f68csqsbvlDZACVgJUqFX-Tc53XW_hkyMvM-Zp1mtgLv_3pTibl4vR1JgiFgTOH2Oz9Y6whCAG2SiUl9D1GvaZrtlFQnc7JiKQvQmT7p73CqU8JFZW5zRSULLhYddklGpk/s1600/virgin+rainbow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJB-tDYOZY3f68csqsbvlDZACVgJUqFX-Tc53XW_hkyMvM-Zp1mtgLv_3pTibl4vR1JgiFgTOH2Oz9Y6whCAG2SiUl9D1GvaZrtlFQnc7JiKQvQmT7p73CqU8JFZW5zRSULLhYddklGpk/s400/virgin+rainbow.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "Virgin Rainbow" opal, soon to be displayed at the South Australia Museum. Photo courtesy of www.atlasobscura.com</td></tr>
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Unlike most gemstones, that have a crystalline system which dictates the way that it will grow and take shape, opal does not grow from any set system. However, it is made up of microscopic silica spheres that are tightly pact together; so it can't be considered completely random. Opals in sedimentary deposits occur when mineral-rich waters are rushed into cavities and fissures of rocks; the low temperatures over long periods of time will allow it to take shape. They can also be the product of a volcanic environment (see the recent Gem-A article on <a href="http://www.gem-a.com/publications/journal-of-gemmology/issues-2008-to-date/fritsch-hyalite.aspx">hyalite</a> for more info).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_J58TuLVR3IcWQxDe9AQf2KrEtkgYdHFkXG8KyuAyPaVQ4SbM9wJxcs9P146FFOYneocIZCa_KkRwlj9L5X3-GhxDzgXA1m_bEpNBFoY_3azfl27LRN_hbycB5bo83va_dW9W9hbuVo/s1600/ethiopian.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_J58TuLVR3IcWQxDe9AQf2KrEtkgYdHFkXG8KyuAyPaVQ4SbM9wJxcs9P146FFOYneocIZCa_KkRwlj9L5X3-GhxDzgXA1m_bEpNBFoY_3azfl27LRN_hbycB5bo83va_dW9W9hbuVo/s320/ethiopian.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ethiopian Welo opal. Photo courtesy of www.opalauctions.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Today, opal is found in numerous places (including Mexico and the U.S) though it is most abundantly found in Australia where they've been uncovering deposits since the late 1800's. It is from these deposits that we see some of the most beautiful and rare specimens, which display all of the colors of the rainbow. Recently, the emergence of Ethiopian opals has brought to light an altogether different looking opal, which is rapidly growing in popularity. We'll talk about their particular properties in a separate entry. Here are a few other varieties to consider:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNvzV7-OCS4FMkAwv6PwrFfhbPkJZ9Ikge7z1qABYUiyxwZxZnKYWEMJ_ikPFVjD_2FsMYsmZLNKhDghwr9nMC8P6G7SFqfI1tE45S8zSO-KTaHNgzpix_HVyf2fZ9-3qk436xD6jlW9E/s1600/black+opal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNvzV7-OCS4FMkAwv6PwrFfhbPkJZ9Ikge7z1qABYUiyxwZxZnKYWEMJ_ikPFVjD_2FsMYsmZLNKhDghwr9nMC8P6G7SFqfI1tE45S8zSO-KTaHNgzpix_HVyf2fZ9-3qk436xD6jlW9E/s320/black+opal.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black opal. Photo courtesy of www.opals-on-black.com</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<ul>
<li>Black opals are generally the most sought after opals, as they tend to best display the play-of-color in the stone. The term "black" does not refer to the actual body color of the opal, but rather of it's darker background. When looking at opal doublets (which we'll cover in a different entry) for instance, you'll notice that they are backed with a darker material in order to enhance the color. </li>
</ul>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghq_xmsKVcPLmOoXDOIowiGEL6lTpw5HqVcsuroYw4dQH_FeXCjw7hpJf9v4sqpKbciX7Bl8_QMa8pJQHTSl7OIk5NwTKfZyVHjonJsFY2exdfzB1Bpq0ceLyFjsAXF8wafvIOY6Jh4MU/s1600/white+opal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghq_xmsKVcPLmOoXDOIowiGEL6lTpw5HqVcsuroYw4dQH_FeXCjw7hpJf9v4sqpKbciX7Bl8_QMa8pJQHTSl7OIk5NwTKfZyVHjonJsFY2exdfzB1Bpq0ceLyFjsAXF8wafvIOY6Jh4MU/s320/white+opal.jpg" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White opal. Photo courtesy of www.crystalsrocksandgems.com</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<ul>
<li>White opal, as with black opal, is named that way to describe the background of the stone. It is a much lighter looking stone; though the play-of-color is more subtle, it has a beautiful whimsical quality. </li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_E2DwSrr8oEiLIybI4Qr4grv1oRQQxVrgbY7_LOEQigNjcmLXOWwo_205cbPg_L1EsW81uAJwzUBjJiza1a0ZXzBsb4z5ICPubinkykCpVY4ZCCvA71WLjoYxdq4vfL77dICgUZYwhfM/s1600/jelly+opal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_E2DwSrr8oEiLIybI4Qr4grv1oRQQxVrgbY7_LOEQigNjcmLXOWwo_205cbPg_L1EsW81uAJwzUBjJiza1a0ZXzBsb4z5ICPubinkykCpVY4ZCCvA71WLjoYxdq4vfL77dICgUZYwhfM/s320/jelly+opal.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water opal. Photo courtesy of www.cynthiarenee.com</td></tr>
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<ul>
<li>Water "Jelly" opal has always been pleasing to me. As a relatively colorless stone, the play-of- color looks like bits of color trapped in a chunk of jelly which is all too comical.</li>
</ul>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlz8Py_MLRn0WegWcSZCIil_tyjFWXL7mKLJyiSRUY57-rr8fBm1FlUk8nqhnItcfzLoDgUDmeWMUJABHyHB8cT6sMmORCpMkYNModime0pqu38oVPGSsNHCg76bXYC_u0PJYFBsccDZg/s1600/boulder_opal_oval_3.7ct_1_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlz8Py_MLRn0WegWcSZCIil_tyjFWXL7mKLJyiSRUY57-rr8fBm1FlUk8nqhnItcfzLoDgUDmeWMUJABHyHB8cT6sMmORCpMkYNModime0pqu38oVPGSsNHCg76bXYC_u0PJYFBsccDZg/s320/boulder_opal_oval_3.7ct_1_.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Boulder" opal. Photo courtesy of www.treasurion.com</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<ul>
<li>"Boulder" opal refers to the opal that is often too thin to be cut away from the host rock that it was formed on. In some cases, the boulder's contrast to the colorful opal is rather pleasing and makes for an interesting gem on its own.</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi97yNPLHmDPYsS0ZBn0K0mSuMENDgSOfEpycLj9GcSB-BMyiBSZFtAxzWkLCxDSJOxd_nQB1qSnK3aVtWD4iOb00Rh_Vst3ObX_tRdeM4bamSHsv9uCoMLhIlUkHNDOsHAbYoDXw8mbVs/s1600/1082134505.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi97yNPLHmDPYsS0ZBn0K0mSuMENDgSOfEpycLj9GcSB-BMyiBSZFtAxzWkLCxDSJOxd_nQB1qSnK3aVtWD4iOb00Rh_Vst3ObX_tRdeM4bamSHsv9uCoMLhIlUkHNDOsHAbYoDXw8mbVs/s320/1082134505.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Opalized" wood. Photo courtesy of www.mymodernmet.com</td></tr>
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<ul>
<li>"Opalized" materials are a really cool concept. As mentioned earlier, opal is made up of silica spheres. In the same way that petrified wood is the result of silica taking over the internal structure of the wood, opalized material is the result of silica invading its internal structure of those materials, giving them the appearance of opal. This can be seen in fossil and wood alike.</li>
</ul>
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So where does the color come in, you may ask? Well that's also a cool bit of science: <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAeOsnYy2fi1voS5UpSuKjhC3SzliQuAbISIXBBLg9oqVZ7o-yless3nTZYVCr8qtkYdamqF4mdsvjTh8fGFtyUMm8oF18xG0wHo_F9bY9YNlpSBh3Kw0R6KlKRl8nPDVQZYl5WcnPBsE/s1600/diffraction.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAeOsnYy2fi1voS5UpSuKjhC3SzliQuAbISIXBBLg9oqVZ7o-yless3nTZYVCr8qtkYdamqF4mdsvjTh8fGFtyUMm8oF18xG0wHo_F9bY9YNlpSBh3Kw0R6KlKRl8nPDVQZYl5WcnPBsE/s400/diffraction.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Illustrates the microscopic interaction between light and opal's silica spheres called diffraction. Photo courtesy of www.olympicopals.com.au</td></tr>
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As we've discussed in an earlier entry, light is not white at all, but rather a whole spectrum of colors. But when light reaches the microscopic spaces between the silica spheres in opal, light is made to diffract or "split" into all of the spectral colors. The diffraction of these colors on all of these spheres subsequently creates interference with one another as well. This is why the color is not static in the stone, but rather moves around when you move around the stone. The colors themselves are dictated by the size and compactness of the silica spheres, which is why we see such a range in colors.<br />
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Of the opals pictured in this entry, which do you like best? Let us know! <br />
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-9293829852749569772015-07-25T10:25:00.000-04:002015-07-25T10:28:20.729-04:00Ode to Tsavorite!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Ok, so there's no actual "Ode to Tsavorite". For those who know me, they'll understand that this is for the best, as my rhyming schemes are generally atrocious. I'll leave the poetry to John Keats & Co. However, that is not to say that it is unworthy of an ode. In fact, tsavorite is deservingly becoming one of the most popular green stones out there today; proving that the market is not restricted to "the big three" as it once was.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBBpQyrNLI9AenVW0O3iZZyeyACZahffZbs2SjN5XgaKLv4nueMjTKbM0Z426Z5c63trsGgpW6KVceycnOSzmW8R7TMxnhxMTdMTMJJfap7iSrq-K8qAGHYdtHuj2UfYWYSxkv1Lzo0g/s1600/2050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBBpQyrNLI9AenVW0O3iZZyeyACZahffZbs2SjN5XgaKLv4nueMjTKbM0Z426Z5c63trsGgpW6KVceycnOSzmW8R7TMxnhxMTdMTMJJfap7iSrq-K8qAGHYdtHuj2UfYWYSxkv1Lzo0g/s400/2050.jpg" width="357" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Nature Collection designed by Martin Katz; tsavorite and diamond earrings. Photo courtesy of www.martinkatz.com</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">T</span>savorite is the name given to grossular garnet, one of the isomorphic series (something we'll learn about in a later entry) of the larger garnet family. It was named after the national park it was found in: Tsavo, Kenya. Perhaps other gemologists will agree with me when I say that I strongly associate <span style="font-family: inherit;">t</span>savorite and <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/2015/03/tantalizing-tanzanite-look-inside-bold.html"><span style="font-family: inherit;">t</span>anzanite</a><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span>for two reasons: Firstly, they are from <span style="font-family: inherit;">neighb<span style="font-family: inherit;">oring localiti<span style="font-family: inherit;">es</span></span></span>. Also, because they are relatively new additions to the gemstone world. Though found in the late 1960s, its current boom on the market is as recent as the last decade.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgev1w4gRcsSra5AChnNnNQfaXuS771nq7qOF0jUk0JuapN9rRClOd19tJnA4WSpYcXQuoBhyphenhyphenkGt_qLKhdVSFsmA-0niMv1E90VZ6hpgwlYMx3i0pDEFuIo-0ElYlpuJj1D41OtmqwNQoE/s1600/180248_1272867348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgev1w4gRcsSra5AChnNnNQfaXuS771nq7qOF0jUk0JuapN9rRClOd19tJnA4WSpYcXQuoBhyphenhyphenkGt_qLKhdVSFsmA-0niMv1E90VZ6hpgwlYMx3i0pDEFuIo-0ElYlpuJj1D41OtmqwNQoE/s400/180248_1272867348.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical tsavorite rough. Photo courtesy of www.gemrockauctions.com</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Like all garnets, tsavorite belongs to the cubic system which is why we find it in these neat-looking rough shapes, typically taken from metamorphic rocks. But as the photograph illustrates, the rough is generally quite small, which is why cut stones that are over 3 carats covet such a higher price. Of course, tsavorite is beautiful enough as the primary stone in jewelry, but due to this size constraint, we see a lot of colorful pavé that utilizes this stone.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUt5WbbmrJdUr5v6AQhLy5Agok1PE_dfsLAAgFk1iyT3kHYsvAxQqFRm6PSteEvAtJDkXABWRTL4BLyQgnCnEQMTMTYCoZCdZN2DItot-YaXIy4KLJ7MgeOvqthuwTayGHMDGtTSlXOFo/s1600/Tsavorite+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUt5WbbmrJdUr5v6AQhLy5Agok1PE_dfsLAAgFk1iyT3kHYsvAxQqFRm6PSteEvAtJDkXABWRTL4BLyQgnCnEQMTMTYCoZCdZN2DItot-YaXIy4KLJ7MgeOvqthuwTayGHMDGtTSlXOFo/s400/Tsavorite+6.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful trilliant tsavorite, 1.62 tcw. Photo courtesy of Bergamot Gems. For inquires please <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/p/contact-us.html">contact</a></td></tr>
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For me, what makes tsavorite special is the unique color that it possesses. Although people describe it simply as a forest green, I find that the finest specimens are neither too dark or too lightly saturated. What you want to look for is the color that exudes a lively, vibrant appearance. The trilliant pair pictured above are a fine example of this kind of color (for pricing inquiries, please <a href="http://bergamot-gemtalk.blogspot.ca/p/contact-us.html">contact us</a>). While some purists will say that there is nothing compared to the blue-green hue of a lovely emerald, I think tsavorite has its own merit and makes its own case in the color department.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElZrn0LvvQEvJzos17CTCjyr5EZVhp5OmwW9nJnOderrNIN7qznegvGQx-viipOGM_AU-vul-Y6BS3OZKSbK6rMPSsfOMVU1aq20spfxLJfcWOVpFcmyOfM01nqBy1S3Q3svEDktjZt4/s1600/lorraine-schwartz-emerald-and-diamonds-ring-profile.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElZrn0LvvQEvJzos17CTCjyr5EZVhp5OmwW9nJnOderrNIN7qznegvGQx-viipOGM_AU-vul-Y6BS3OZKSbK6rMPSsfOMVU1aq20spfxLJfcWOVpFcmyOfM01nqBy1S3Q3svEDktjZt4/s400/lorraine-schwartz-emerald-and-diamonds-ring-profile.jpg" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large emerald and diamond ring designed by Lorraine Schwartz. Photo courtesy of www.thejewelexpert.com</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PZl1eMjHmfODovFRMihVIdJNrzIuIIg7NAYNVHgHQKkiTvbMwCexblD3KyalzO-lXS7r8TAr_WlPosfRPm7Obxq8lULM-aYw_dAjaegTNGv0vjujrQ69PV55-JC9KhMIXgkfq0Xq_zw/s1600/tiffany-tsavorite-ringwww.dosalute.net.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PZl1eMjHmfODovFRMihVIdJNrzIuIIg7NAYNVHgHQKkiTvbMwCexblD3KyalzO-lXS7r8TAr_WlPosfRPm7Obxq8lULM-aYw_dAjaegTNGv0vjujrQ69PV55-JC9KhMIXgkfq0Xq_zw/s320/tiffany-tsavorite-ringwww.dosalute.net.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large tsavorite and diamond ring designed by Tiffany & Co. Photo courtesy of www.dosalute.net </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Since we're on the subject of emerald, we can also compare the clarity and general stability of these two green stones. While emerald is most appreciated (after the color) for the inclusions which suggest the locality they came from, tsavorite is typically clear of almost any inclusions. Because of this, tsavorite does not generally need to be treated, unlike emerald which is routinely oil or resin-filled to improve color and clarity.<br />
<br />
I guess what I'm trying to say is this: As beautiful and as diverse as the world of gemstones is, we find numerous examples of stones that are exceptional, but high-maintenance. What is just fantastic about tsavorite is the fact that without any intervention by humans or concern about fragility, this stone is both wonderfully saturated in color, and more readily available and affordable than some other green stones. So the real question remains: When will you get your tsavorite?<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><br /></span></span></div>
Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-17431940436763687922015-07-11T13:24:00.001-04:002015-07-11T13:28:58.293-04:00#Throwback Jewelry: A Tribute to the Minoans<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I recently read
somewhere that Victorian era-inspired jewelry and even the antique
jewelry from that period were making a significant comeback on the market. While reflecting on the
time period that this jewelry was born out of, it occurred to me that like most art,
jewelry styles are reflections of the their historical climate. If
looked at closely, we find that different time periods and the people
living in each of them are not so different from one another. Which is why we
have created a series of entries which are designed
to bring to light the similarities in jewelry trends which existed perhaps
in a not-so-far-off-time from our own.</span></span><br />
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Our first
entry looks back at some pretty great jewelry which was worn by those who came before the ancient Greeks: the Minoans, around 3000 BC. This is hardly the
oldest jewelry known to us, only I felt that its main characteristics
resonated with our present day. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxGo_dlK5SIW9ZCDLx_aSLETZVsNej0j7ze3UfRC2f6y5TU4pK9rMiPyi-7N8wW6j1MXS6e-ASYH-kyXBaLOg3BRpMereHlIsxvN8IQC9eVrEbtrA3VsW31hKl6spNOLir-APg3VuNfwM/s1600/www.ancient.eu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxGo_dlK5SIW9ZCDLx_aSLETZVsNej0j7ze3UfRC2f6y5TU4pK9rMiPyi-7N8wW6j1MXS6e-ASYH-kyXBaLOg3BRpMereHlIsxvN8IQC9eVrEbtrA3VsW31hKl6spNOLir-APg3VuNfwM/s320/www.ancient.eu.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Golden Bee Pendant</i>, a fine example of Minoan jewelry at its apogee. Circa 1700 BC. Photo courtesy www.ancient.eu </td></tr>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Minoan
jewelry is rather interesting when you take a close look at it. First off, you’ll
notice that for the most part, it restricts itself to metalwork. It would only be
later on with the emergence of the Myceneans and the Greeks that one would see
intaglios made of gemstones. Much like the civilization itself, we find that the
jewelry is a testament of the Minoans’ ability to exchange and take part in
international trade (at least what was considered international at the time). </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilfimyNl_CKSglj7zntxaE9ElKmDVgyPHHQHwRnNbkcYNa9KQ4RKYLog49lWQWwQYmAOQoh-T7T-N9jIRPbhtOnKSfkC6-tLQUCS3udL_fl0suDTC1dNiG7q5n8HBeK1snDD14zRLV0c4/s1600/www.eastampton.k12.nj.us.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilfimyNl_CKSglj7zntxaE9ElKmDVgyPHHQHwRnNbkcYNa9KQ4RKYLog49lWQWwQYmAOQoh-T7T-N9jIRPbhtOnKSfkC6-tLQUCS3udL_fl0suDTC1dNiG7q5n8HBeK1snDD14zRLV0c4/s400/www.eastampton.k12.nj.us.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A map of Minoan trade, detailing Import/Export. Photo Courtesy <span class="_r3"><a class="irc_hl irc_hol" data-noload="" href="http://www.eastampton.k12.nj.us/webpages/sbonora/index.cfm?subpage=1478356"><span class="irc_ho" dir="ltr">www.eastampton.k12.nj.us</span></a> </span></td></tr>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Though thought to originate from Asia Minor (modern-day Turkey), these island
dwellers of Crete would have navigated the entire Mediterranean; as far West as Spain and as far East as Turkey. Along the way, their
trade with surrounding civilizations would grant them access to materials and
techniques from places as far as modern-day Egypt, India and even Russia. This is how, for instance, imported gold would be introduced to their arsenal of precious metals as early on as 2400BC. Goldsmithing
techniques would also be shared; this is why, even beyond the sudden disappearance
of this civilization in roughly 1500 BC, we still see motifs of filigree and
granulation being used by succeeding civilizations. Later on, Alexander the Great, a successor to both the Minoans and Mycenaeans, would also contribute to this global trade. Best known for his long military and territorial expeditions to the furthest stretches of the Earth, this king created one of the largest empires in the ancient world. Exposure to foreign territories also gave ancient Greeks access to the gemstones which would characterize the Hellenistic period (approx. 300BC).</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56KBgsZ1TK1PDC50SoVUaH0L8k3UcqjnCs1j3tMktnba5Wo8XSF3PL2cAaYlNsZ-9WNwMN-MAcavh1HvczAWwBqxJsd0t6-veu-wIlEs0rDcDJhLUK1ZMMCZ_b6WBRRFuqCS3uic88uo/s1600/www.metmuseum.org.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56KBgsZ1TK1PDC50SoVUaH0L8k3UcqjnCs1j3tMktnba5Wo8XSF3PL2cAaYlNsZ-9WNwMN-MAcavh1HvczAWwBqxJsd0t6-veu-wIlEs0rDcDJhLUK1ZMMCZ_b6WBRRFuqCS3uic88uo/s320/www.metmuseum.org.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An armband with Herakles Knot consisting of garnet, emerald & enamel, Circa 3rd-2nd Century BC Fine example of Hellenistic jewelry from the time of Alexander the Great . Photo Courtesy of www.metmuseum.org</td></tr>
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<br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">When I say that this civilization and in turn their jewelry is similar to our
present day, it's chiefly because our time is characterized by the globalization of people. From
telecommunications and social media to international trade, we are remotely
engaging with the world beyond our street, city, country even continent at a
speed which has never been seen before. </span></span>Interestingly, the trade in the raw materials used to make jewelry is as extensive and global today as it was 5000 years ago.</div>
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<br />Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1415891485493779636.post-64791014668975064652015-06-27T23:05:00.001-04:002015-06-27T23:10:23.793-04:00The Answer to the Previous Post is in: Alexandrite the Great!<div style="text-align: justify;">
So, did you guess right? It turns out that these two stones are in fact one and the same gemstone: Alexandrite! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_NSeGa_QfecHUDLVgGgjUqhr-e0fa_gPINNxrap2-r1OtEvhS-m0HWd-yJbn3yaCg1UQC56yNAaVM8nRUNCQl9J6wFaB7EioEaiJD7AeIHaw65uOd3kuBSZmjVkHw9J_yHy8ZLWEDig/s1600/alexandrite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_NSeGa_QfecHUDLVgGgjUqhr-e0fa_gPINNxrap2-r1OtEvhS-m0HWd-yJbn3yaCg1UQC56yNAaVM8nRUNCQl9J6wFaB7EioEaiJD7AeIHaw65uOd3kuBSZmjVkHw9J_yHy8ZLWEDig/s1600/alexandrite.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexandrite, Chrysoberyl. Photo Courtesy of www.dorondiamonds.com</td></tr>
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Is this witchcraft, you ask? Sorry to disappoint you, but there's no funny business going on here; Alexandrite's most coveted and desired property is the color-change effect! As the name suggests, this property is the ability for certain gemstones to display different body colors when viewed in certain light sources.</div>
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In order to properly explain how this works, we must first explain a few things about light and color.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXK6GBhhuMfdjLJwURtk0ws757E4j6UI9lg_Emnw8_zaMiOPO4oTuepdq3FAJxiXVlVN9R_4tiNPQy27y2g8brqeLTJstD8fteUB6XFoB-k5tImEjKP67triXgCZo-2JZOJBI1RPTdMtg/s1600/electromagnetic+spectrum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXK6GBhhuMfdjLJwURtk0ws757E4j6UI9lg_Emnw8_zaMiOPO4oTuepdq3FAJxiXVlVN9R_4tiNPQy27y2g8brqeLTJstD8fteUB6XFoB-k5tImEjKP67triXgCZo-2JZOJBI1RPTdMtg/s400/electromagnetic+spectrum.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The electromagnetic spectrum (top); a close up of the visible light spectrum (bottom). Photo courtesy www.artinaid.com </td></tr>
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For the purpose of this entry, we will go on the generally accepted assumption that energy travels in wavelengths. The higher the frequency, the greater the amount of energy that is being transmitted. This is how we can begin to understand the differences between energies such as the x-rays we use at the dentist to the micro-waves in our microwave. One can penetrate bone, while the other can heat up your dinner. Light is also an energy; the energy that can be seen by the human eye is called the visible light spectrum and spans a range between approximately 400-700 nm. In this range, we can see all of the colors of the rainbow classified in their respective wavelengths. The various types of lighting that are available to us will be dependent on the wavelengths that are being utilized. In other words, incandescent light (which traditionally has warmer tones) will emit light energy from different wavelengths than fluorescent light or even daylight (which will have colder tones). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5GMIAHSZM0fs6OfumOXQm3LRHGvc2du5V7HDdY45_cOkbP9JAsv5tMy68bgiMUuEwz3FZ8ww-r523Og-ypXWMsntTR0sjP5b-WrRntx7XXY9HcwKdcRCnBu9I28jxCuakS0GMd0XS5k/s1600/Chrysiberyl+rough.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5GMIAHSZM0fs6OfumOXQm3LRHGvc2du5V7HDdY45_cOkbP9JAsv5tMy68bgiMUuEwz3FZ8ww-r523Og-ypXWMsntTR0sjP5b-WrRntx7XXY9HcwKdcRCnBu9I28jxCuakS0GMd0XS5k/s400/Chrysiberyl+rough.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rough crystal of Alexandrite, Chrysoberyl. Photo courtesy of www.gia.edu</td></tr>
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In certain gemstones, including Alexandrite, the chemical composition and structure of the gem are such that a simple change in the light source will impact the way that the stone will absorb the energy; in turn it can drastically change the body color of the stone. Alexandrite of the finest quality, can range from a pleasing blueish green in daylight to raspberry red in incandescent light. Of course, the locality of the deposit will effect the colors variously, but the lasting point is that the change is quite dramatic. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7WBnz7uPXto5qYZ6CMG62bV75Sy30eWgsUFFxtHrsFJuVyZSzCd90YDmiwkdhsNwybbDH5fqouP5KRnFN23ITXoPsS9FDGO80uSaZLv6BYJVRb2nFPEUd0FbfD4EvJ6Lf182EpZ7DaTo/s1600/online.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7WBnz7uPXto5qYZ6CMG62bV75Sy30eWgsUFFxtHrsFJuVyZSzCd90YDmiwkdhsNwybbDH5fqouP5KRnFN23ITXoPsS9FDGO80uSaZLv6BYJVRb2nFPEUd0FbfD4EvJ6Lf182EpZ7DaTo/s400/online.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexandrite with the cat's eye effect, viewed in different lighting. Photo courtesy of www.gemologyonline.com</td></tr>
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Apart from its ability to change color, Alexandrite can also display chatoyancy or a cat's eye effect, (something we'll cover in a later post). As a member of the Chrysoberyl family, Alexandrite is a rather hard stone (8 on the Mohs scale) and has quite a high lustre; making it an interesting choice. Not to mention it's one of June's birthstones! It also happens to be one of Bergamot Gems' co-owners' favorite stones :)</div>
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Just in case you're curious, other stones can also display the color change effect. Examples include: synthetic color-change Sapphire, synthetic Spinel and even certain Garnet.<br />
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Bergamot Gemshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01346984094292730173noreply@blogger.com3